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which one?

  • 1998 gsxr

    Votes: 1 7.7%
  • 2002 Ninja 6r

    Votes: 7 53.8%
  • other

    Votes: 5 38.5%

  • Total voters
    13
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Discussion Starter #1
a 1998 750 GSXR with 8k miles at $3400
(located 4 hours away)
OR

a 2002 zx6r ninja with 7k miles at $3500 (which is also in your city)

Driver skill does NOT matter!
I dont have a track and am more of a drag racer anyways.
But will NOT be doing anything crazy like drag racing ;)

Complete Stats on both bikes will be up in an hour.

Only looking to spend the $3500 (MAX) and the rest spent towards Gear!

Thanks Alot!
 

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So much will depend upon you intend to use it 75% of the time for the'98 GSXR750 in name alone sounds great (since I have owned several Suzy GSXR-750 bikes though older then the '98 bike) ONLY it is 10 yrs old in design along with wear & tear, while the 2002 ZX6r is younger & true only 600cc, but then how many times is the normal rider able have his 600cc bike up to 75% of its power level, knowing even on the hwys he is breaking the speed limit, by quite a bit, & depending upon the rider's stills & the riding terrian he might be riding around his maximum or a bit over it. So it would be the youngr bike in my mind.

Lastly the 600cc will be a bet lighter on fuel use.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
on the 98 gsxr 750 the bastard pulled outta the deal and offered it to someone AFTER me for a few hundred more...
looks like its the ninja then!
 

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Strength and Honor
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Welcome to the auction world. Cash in hand always beats out other things since so many never follow-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what my problem was is that I told the owners I would "come look at it" instead of saying "I'm gonna come buy it and pick it up".
 

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Strength and Honor
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I wouldn't really ever do that either. With used bikes, the best you can do is get some cash in hand quick and make a visit ASAP, letting them know when you'll be there. If you opted not to buy the bike, you really just pissed off the owner, and that's not really a good thing. The world isn't as large as you'd think ;)

As an aside, I've checked out lots of Ebay auctions on bikes before and had some luck asking to come see a bike that's far from finishing and offering to buy it outright before auction end. Contacting them via Ebay first is a good idea, of course, to see if that's viable. When I was watching bikes frequently, those that failed to make Reserve would end up getting re-posted, so those folks are often interested in off-auction sales despite not having noted that in their listing. :2cents:
 

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Being part-owner of several m/c shops I have to admit the 'used' bikes I have bought were some that came to our shop for a trade-in or possibly wanting to sell the bike for certain reasons.

So I had a much better chance of going over the bike, in our shop, to buy & make a few up-grades or corrections like dual saddle to solo, better tyres, chain, sprockets, battery, & such. Otherwise I would purchase a new bike at our cost.

Also back then (late 40s to the late 80) the PC was not seemingly in everyone's hands with the m/c boards, advertising bikes for sale & such.

So our shop would clear the title to correct any payments on the bike & then go over the bike to put it into a "good" to "excellent" catagory as a "used" bike for sale at a shop.

In truth this is the better way to buy as one can spot the bike & give it some thought so it is still in our hands or sold two weeks ago, if the prospective buyer was still thinking about it or the matter of a loan was dragging for some weeks.

True not like a steal of a buy from the prsent owner like these days or sometimes payments are still on the bike or possibly the prospective buyer is not aware of the bike being abused or later on find some things have to be replaced or corrected on the bike.

I actually feel some are playing games with some of the chaps that travel all that way to see & buy the bike only not find it there. They are a bit warped in mind that seeing the disappointed look & words from said prospective customer is funny to them.
 

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moto-dealerships are cut throat bastards. unlike a car dealership that has to sell the a car within 30 days or so or they will loose profit or sumthin'

Motorcycle dealerships can have the bike as long as needed, so that gives them the upperhand in a way that they will only sell you a bike in THEIR range (which moto-dealer prices personally are a rip). Also used bikes at dealers are rips, all they did was might of changed the oil, filters, and tires; and jack up the trade-in by thousands. I say dont go to dealers untill you've had your third bike, so by then you can have some knowledge to call-out the dealers on their bullshit-sales-talk; also dont buy delaer till your older, everyone knows that they will easily rip off a dumb kid for a good $2,000 or more!

I wouldn't really ever do that either. With used bikes, the best you can do is get some cash in hand quick and make a visit ASAP, letting them know when you'll be there. If you opted not to buy the bike, WHO CARES WHAT THE OWNER THINKS ;)
+Your the one with the cash, be in controll of the deal.

what my problem was is that I told the owners I would "come look at it" instead of saying "I'm gonna come buy it and pick it up".
Do you have any friends who ride motorcycles EZ? If you dont, you might get a bad craiglist bike and not know it.

!!!HEY EVERYONE ! give EZ some things to look-out for when buying used

==========STORY============
mostly everyone on this site has heard of my friend (the seen everything dude).

Well he claims, that on two of his previously owned bikes, he unpluged the odometer at 6000 miles. and then said that he track-raced, crashed, and beat the bike. Though properly maintained, he says he had to over 70,000 miles on one and 200,000 miles on the other. For scratch care he said he just sanded down smooth and spray painted a COOL color.
And then plugged in the odometer, and sold his bikes to that "dumb kid" with cash.

Dont be that dumb kid with cash EZ.
 

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EZ,

Have you heard of a "sellers contract"? Its basically a piece of paper that you and the owner sign, that is somewhat a legal document. And if not held true, you can trade it back.

Lets say you buy a '2002 zx6r' , and the VIN turns out to be a 2000 model. you can sue the guy if he doesnt take the bike back or give you $$ on whatever difference between years.

Seller contracts can help you in other ways too . . .
 

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Correct me if im wrong = *

You can also look at the chain sprockets on a bike to guesstamate the mileage.

If the teeth are very worn out, correct me if im wrong, its a good estamate that the bike is over 13,000* miles. And make sure they are the OEM stock sprocks too.
If they are not OEM and are aftermarket, thats could be a clear giveaway that its had lots of miles. Ask questions why they are not OEM and stuff: to then see if you smell a rat.

Good way to tell the difference; OEM sprockets are generally plain in style, while aftermarket sprocks look better, sharper, nicer ect.
 

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Do you want me to continue EZ?
 

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are you all really calling me a kid? :laughing:
It's scary to think that, if you are being honest, you are actually a few weeks older than me.

And still have no clue about how to conduct simple business.

BTW, I wouldn't take sprockets to be a clear indication of mileage. I'd be more inclined to look at the odometer. A lot of people change sprockets before their bikes have 1K miles on them.
 

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calling you a kid, no, its just to get my point out . . .

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Anyone else have other ideas on what to look-out for?
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Lest see . . . ok . . .

Those claiming low miles, you can look at the sprocks, and look at the muffler and headers. Most headers will be discolored because of high RPM use and high heat. Correct me if Im wrong, but before 3000 miles there should be little discoloration, and the muffler tip should be low of carbon resedue.

If the headers have a long discoloration area past the headers show its been reved hard, and it the muffler tip is caked with thick black resedue that you can scrape a thick ammount off shoes lots of hours

this post ^here^ is not a very good one
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Also dont be amazed or show too much interest if the bike has a polished frame, special blinkers, fender eliminators, aftermarket levers, or aftermarket exhaust slip-ons.
Slip-on mufflers either carbon fiber, titaniun, or whatever; only add like 5 HP at most, and can drop the torque. Looks nice, but I dont think they should hold too much power on the cost of the bike.

When I bought my first bike, the guy said he bought a fender eliminator kit, which he didnt, he just got a hack saw and cut off that area, and put some blinkers on the seat cowl. And the rear blinkers couldnt be seen very well at all durring the day, and the licence plate bracket was just a piece of bent metal with home depot screws

And of the seller says its chrome, its probably not. See if you can get some proof if it is indeed chrome. It not then its most likely just polished aluminum
 

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Do you know what 'steering stops' are? I think that what their called . . .
well they are on the lower tripple tree, they are raised notched that prevent the steering forks from turning too far.

If the stops have small scuffs, thats little to be worried about. But if they are physically damaged, like morphing metal irregular. Means that the bike has had a bad fall that hit the handle bar's side, and hit with so much force that the stop was physically damaged. That dude that a talk about said that they can be clearly sheared off:jawdrop:, hence a bad lay-over
But a good mechanic can replace the bad tripple tree with a good one, so you can also look at where the stops touch the frame, and see if there is damage.
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And also dont fully believe that the person has replaced the oil, air filters, or oil filter. You can look through the oil window, usually on the right side, and see if its good oil or not.
The oil and filters stuff you just have to play it by ear
And I would just replace all to those myself, just to keep a good track on when to replace for myself
 
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