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You can shift over at any of the milages stated. So if you are comming to 2,000 then go ahead & shift over. Of a bit later if you are close to the 4,000.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i'm thinking of staying with regular after reading all of the posts about clutch problems...i wouldn't know what to look for in a synthetic, and would probably end up with the bad kind sooner or later...
 

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Lotsa people run synthetic, just have to get the right ones. I would recommend Shell Rotella, but do some research, theres a lot of info out there and find something you are comfortable with.
 

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Watch out for "Friction modifiers", also knows as "Energy saving" Oils. there are some conventional oils with the same additives. I used to swear by mobil 1 red cap, but I cant find it anywhere now... there is a red capped mobil 1, but its not the same thing...
 

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THis is prbably a really stupid question but does the same oil that runs through the engine come in contact with the clutch. These bikes do have a wet style clutch right. I gues if thats nt the case i dont see y engine oil would lead to clutch problems.
 

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It is the case, they DO have a wet clutch. Thats why you have to use the proper oil, one with no friction modifiers and one that has good shear properties.

And Vash they changed the red cap to a gold one and changed the formulaton a bit from what I understand. Most have reported good results with it though some haven't.

As far as switching to full synthetic in all reality you could do it your first oil change, but I would probably wait until your second or third.

My first change was at 100 miles, then around 600-800 and then at 2k I switched to synthetic.
 

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Thanks pinguin I'll give it a try. Right after I try the rottella stuff...

BTW, I just noticed we were in the same state... wanna get together for a ride sometime?
 

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I am always up for it, Texas is a pretty big state though, I am in the Houston area. With the weather cooling off though I am always up for a few hundred mile Saturday.
 

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We might have to wait till spring. My october is booked beyound my ability to keep up with it, and november might get a little cold. I live about half way down i20, around abiline.
 

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Vash said:
Thanks pinguin I'll give it a try. Right after I try the rottella stuff...

BTW, I just noticed we were in the same state... wanna get together for a ride sometime?
i picked up the gold cap mobil, i'll let u know if there are any problems, cant beat the price, 5 qt for $24.
 

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well i went to pick up a quart (only had 3 needed 3.5) of the gold cap mobil and those bastards added the energy conserving garbage to it.

looks like no more mobil for us Vash.
 

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Give shell Rotella a try. Thats what I'm running and it beats the hell out of the other few types of oil I've run. I get almost no clutch slippage with it, I get a little but I think thats more due to the milage on the clutch than the oil. You really can't beat the price on the stuff, it was like $10 for a gallon of it. Its just desil oil and is allowed to have certain modifiers that are good for wet clutches, which have been banned by the EPA in regular car oils. I want to say its Zinc that prevents the slippage, but I'm not positive. Their is a Rotella T 15 W 40 wich is not full synthetic, and a 5 W 40 which is a fully synthetic. I'm running the 15 W 40, not the full synthetic. Good luck.

Sepias
 

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Uh what's wrong with running regular? $8 per quart for full-synth at dealer here, not cheap. I've ran both kinds, couldn't tell any difference.
 

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Z_Fanatic said:
Uh what's wrong with running regular? $8 per quart for full-synth at dealer here, not cheap. I've ran both kinds, couldn't tell any difference.
I've run regular oil and had slippage, but not all bikes are the same so the tolerances could be different. I'm not saying their is a problem with regular or sythetic, just saying what I was running.

Sepias
 

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I'd say after the initial break-in period of the engine, then you could switch over to synthetic. I'd say you could start using semi-synthetic after 600-1000miles, then full synthetic after 2k, but thats what I just feel.

I use regular on the f2, and semi synthetic on the gixxer and rr. 4l of regular is just $17 or 4l of semi synthetic is about $23. Full synthetic doesn't seem worth it too me at some $40 per 4l in my area and since I don't go on the track yet, it really isn't useful.
 

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i get my oil from a friend that owns a small repare shop he is a spectral dealer so that is what i use the spectral blend and have had good luck with it with a k&n oil filter.
 

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Honestly, you can use full synthetic right out of the box. Your engine will still break in fine. Synthetic isn't really any different from natural oil, only that it's pure and doesn't need all the viscosity modifiers that natural oil does. Also, it lasts much longer in motorcycles because the transmission gears destroy the viscosity additives in natural oils, which synthetics don't have. Don't confuse synthetic oils with things like Slick 50. You shouldn't use those types of engine treatments because they are potentially bad for your clutch, and they tend to clog oil passages rather than coat cylinder walls. Also, as pointed out above, don't use the "energy conserving" oils because they contain molybdenum to make them slicker, which could also make your clutch slip. I use the Shell Rotella full synth. - about $20 for 4 gal. at Wal-Mart. Read this for more info on oils. This guy has done the research for us.
 
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