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Chris' way is the REAL MAN's way to do it, but when I did mine I cheated...Get yourself the shop manual, you REALLY should have it anyway, or you'll NEVER know what to torque all the bolts down to...Bottom line...Use the chart in the manual...It's so foolproof, even
"I" can figure it out!!!HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHGood Luck!!!!Jimmy G.

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I got the manual, is it safe to measure the distance without shims?(don't want to mess up the buckets. I'm begining to think that the valves were done in a way that it wouldn't need any....I will check anyway of course. The motor is completly in pieces now, and I got the crank bearings today. The cams are a mystery.... How to tell if just stock? What should I look for in aftermarket cams? I thought after market stuff was steel, not cast, cuz the one set came in aftermarket boxes "megacycle cams"
Any other tricks I can do while the motor is apart?
Thanks for the help, to go faster.....


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I purchased a race head for my bike (98 honda F3) and have no shims under the bucket. Where do I start? I have two sets of cams to play with and want to know which ones to put in.
Like the tolorance, high or low?
The valves have been chopped and are not stock. Al lindenerg or something did the head on a flow bench, but now I'm puzzled about the shims,buckets, and stuff...Please Help!!!


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#1) Using the manufacturers manual for your
bike measure the tolerances for the cam shafts
(I'm assuming the are both stock cams). Use
the one that has the least wear. After
that, install the cams without the chain (to
make life easier) with the buckets in place.
Measure the gap between the buckets and the
cam lobes without the shims. Take the number
that you get and subtract the middle ground
of the clearance range (for good middle of
the road tolerance :)) and the number you have
left with be the size of the shim you need.
Write down each shim size requirement for
each vavle and order them from your local
dealer. That should do it bro!


Chris


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"If you spent more time worrying about you I wouldn't have to."
 

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i may be nuts, but if the tolerances are good and it has no shims, wouldn't that mean that the valves are probably in bad shape.

i could wrong here....i'm no mechanic.

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Tony

the views and opinions expressed by tony (cbrf2boy) are the ramblings of a total idiot. sbw.com, it's administrators, moderators, and members don't necessarily agree with and are not responsible for anything this idiot has to say.

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I think when I placed the cams on the head I didn't have them lined up perfectly. In and out facing away from each other. I'll give it a try. Thanks. So it's logical to do this with the head off the motor? I know it's done with it on, but would this matter?
Are thier steel cams? They look cast to me.
As for wear on the cams, they all look brand new, with no marks. I bought all this stuff from Team America, and am just sorting the stuff out.
Thanks again.


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By the way, the head was off the motor when I got it, just to clairfy that it probably had shims, just that I also have three sets of buckets and lots of extra stuff to play with. I guess who ever was working on it never fully put it together.


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