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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This has nothing to do with the synthetic vs. non-synthetic turnsignal fluid dilemma. ;)

I just installed flushmount turnsignals (front) and mini-stalks (rear) on my VTR. The left signals blinks at a normal rate, but the right signals blink at a faster-than-normal rate. I rechecked all the connections, but couldn't find anything that might be causing this. Any ideas?

After hacking away at my rear fender, I finally got my new Tailocker (for increased underseat stowage capacity) installed. In all honesty, I'm not convinced that the $150 was well spent. While the mfr's claim is that its capacity is 6 liters, considering the design (shape), and the space taken by the electronic modules, you really don't gain that much space over the OEM setup (not $150 worth, anyway). :mad:

My Pit Bull rear stand came in about a week ago. Worth every penny. Two thumbs up!



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Pete
"Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul."
 

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Check those connections again---better yet have your boy check them :D . Just messing. Actually, I changed my fronts to flush mounts and rear tail light intergrator (trailer converter) and now my blinkers flash normal until I hit the brake and they go into overdrive. I've never heard of just one side doing this. Does your brake effect them at all?

Does that tail locker open from the bottom? If it does that would probably make the $$ worth it just to not have to take the freakin' seat off to get to the storage area.

Did you ever get a pipe? How about the first service :p ? If it warms up a bit, we'll have to do a ride.


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"I like the water gun idea..."~Will "the mad man" Darton
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Clark,

Nope, the brakes have no effect on the blink rate.

Nope, the Tailocker for the VTR does not open from the bottom like those made for the VFR. You have to remove the seat to gain access. God, I miss that 929 in more ways than one.

Nope, I have gotten pipes yet. I'll probably order this week.

Yep, I did get the first service done. I've got 1,000 miles on the bike now. Would've had 300 more if it hadn't been raining here all weekend.

Yep, we do need to get together for a ride. In fact, had the forecast not been so terrible, I was planning on asking you last week if you wanted to hook up for yesterday.

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Pete
"Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul."
 

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Pete what you got there is a case of a bad bulb, if one of the bulbs doesnt work , the other will blink alot faster, or one of the connections are bad, same thing happened when i put in my front flush lights.
Goodluck,Steve


THE KAT PURRS

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by REDKAT:
Pete what you got there is a case of a bad bulb, if one of the bulbs doesnt work , the other will blink alot faster, or one of the connections are bad, same thing happened when i put in my front flush lights.
Goodluck,Steve

THE KAT PURRS

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Steve, thanks. The weird thing is that all the bulbs are working (illuminating), and all the connections seem to be solid.


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Pete
"Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul."

[This message has been edited by Pete (edited October 09, 2000).]
 

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Pete, the problem with the turn signals is that the flasher is not detecting enough load on the circuit (as if there were a bulb out) maybe the new bulbs are a lower wattage than original??

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Kyle J.-
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"Reflect upon your present blessings, of which every man has many -- not on your past misfortunes, of which all men have some."
-- Charles Dickens
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by riverrunner_2000:
Pete, the problem with the turn signals is that the flasher is not detecting enough load on the circuit (as if there were a bulb out) maybe the new bulbs are a lower wattage than original??

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yeah, but it's happening only on one side. Maybe one set (either front or rear), had mismatched bulbs. I'll have to check that out. Thanks, Kyle.

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Pete
"Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul."
 

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Pete -

Had the same problem when I changed the signals on my CBR. What's happening is that you have one of the leads on the front left blinker reversed. In other words, the blinker lead to the running light lead on the blinker itself, and the running light lead to the blinker lead on the blinker itself.

Sounds repetitive, sorry. Just switch the power leads and leave the negative lead alone and that should solve your poroblem. Let us know how it goes.

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~Nick
Hey squid, wanna race? No, not down that straight road...we're gonna hit the twisties. Hey, where ya' goin'?
 

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CBR is correct. I had the same problem on both my F3 and F4 when I installed my blinkers. :D :D

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Dan F4 Red/Black
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nick and Dan, I'm not running dual line blinkers (i.e., no running lights). When I was first installing them, I inadvertently plugged one into the running light power line, and what I got was a running light with no blinking. So, I don't think I am having the same problem you guys did.

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Pete
"Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul."
 

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Sounds to me like you have a resistance problem. Check to make sure the right amount of resistance (measured in ohms) is going make to the flasher relay. If there is too much the falsher will think the bulb is out. You may just want to purchase another flasher with a higher resistance rating.

I hope I got that right :confused:

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You get the best thrills on two wheels!

Damn rice burners!
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Vypir. I'll get my meter out this evening and check it out.

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Pete
"Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul."
 

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Pete,

I'm not sure what it could be then. I hope you figure it out. It's one of those things that bugs until it's wright. :)

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Dan F4 Red/Black

[This message has been edited by Dan F4 (edited October 09, 2000).]
 

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I think Nick and Dan called it. I have the same setup and had the same problem. The wire colors/stripes may seem to match up, but the aftermarket signals have a different wiring code-check the package if you still have it. Anyway, they are pieces of crap and will be burning out/rattling apart/melting in no time. I got sick of replacing them and just use hand signals now (more effective anyway).

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Heeeere piggy piggy...

[This message has been edited by Tristan (edited October 09, 2000).]
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Pete:
Nick and Dan, I'm not running dual line blinkers (i.e., no running lights). When I was first installing them, I inadvertently plugged one into the running light power line, and what I got was a running light with no blinking. So, I don't think I am having the same problem you guys did.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yeah man, same rule applies. Though instead of switching the wires, take the power wire you have going to the blinker now, and connect it to the other power lead from the blinker. My guess is you have the blinker lead from the bike connected to the running light lead of the blinker itself. The filaments in the bulb are different for blinker and running light, therefor providing different resistences.

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~Nick
Hey squid, wanna race? No, not down that straight road...we're gonna hit the twisties. Hey, where ya' goin'?
 

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Gosh, is it to late to put the old ones back on?
I agree, it sounds like the wires need to be switched.


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If if if....
If a frog had wings, he wouldn't bump his ass every time he jumps!
 

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Pete,

If you haven't figured it out by now, let me throw in my experience here. I had the exact same problem. Switching wires around did not correct my problem. I finally tracked it down to the base inside the bulb socket itself. Somehow during the install, the socket base (the piece that makes contact with the bulb) turned. I had to feed some wire into the socket to get enough slack to turn the base into the proper position. What I would suggest is take 1 bulb out of the side that is working correctly and match up the base positioning the same. The bulbs, which I'm assuming are the same as mine, have a high tab and a low tab which only allow insertion into the socket one way. If the base has gotten turned, the contact points on the bottom of the bulb will not line up properly and no amount of wire switching will correct it.

If you need me to confuse you further, just ask :D.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I knew Tristan was thick-headed, but Nick? ;)

Reread my post. If that doesn't help, imagine for a minute that you're holding a turnsignal in your hand. It's different from yours in that it only has TWO frickin' wires coming out of it, NOT three! One is for power, the other for ground. I have the ground wire for the blinker connected to the ground wire on the bike. If I connect the other wire from the blinker to the running light power lead on the bike, I get a running light that does not blink. If I connect that same wire from the blinker to the blinker power lead on the bike, I get a blinker that blinks faster than normal. There is no more wire swapping that I can do! Got it?! I think I1ACBR and Vypir did.

I didn't get a chance to check resistance last night. And thanks Don, I'll give that a good look too.

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Pete
"Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul."
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'll bet you just changed to Synthetic right!!! Go back to Semi - Synthetic :D :p Sorry I had too!!

If you have only two wire's it doesn't matter which way they are connected just solong as they are connected.. When I installed my Carbon Fiber wannabe loc phil turn signals, I had the same problem Turns out I lost a connection somewhere else... Don't know if you did but.. take the plastics off and trace back those wires , that sounds like the culprit.

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Watch out where those Huskies go , Don't you eat that yellow snow ....

Adam
 

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Dumbass Cajun Cowboy can't even wire up a couple of damn blinkers. Geez :rolleyes: :D :p

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John

"If Harley made an airplane... would you fly in it?"
 
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