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Discussion Starter #1
Folks,

As you can tell, I am in the middle of doing a few things to the bike right now. (In the Marines, been away for a while, now I'm back)
I had a set of LP flush mounted turn signals (black tint); I cut the fairings, rewired the lights and put them in. Now, two weeks later the damn things are melting!!! What the F!
 

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I'm going to guess that your blinker filament (brighter) is on all the time, and your running light filament (dimmer) is hooked up to the blinker wire. Just a guess, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I bought some replacement lights, but they are two wire instead of three. I know that one of them is the running light, butI cannot figure out which one. I have wired them every way that I can think of....:hurl:
 

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If my memory serves me correctly, there are three wires. Well, I know that for sure, but anyway. One is black (ground). One is solid (either blue or green), and the other is solid w/ brown dashes on it. I'm quite sure the one w/ dashes is the running light. So, connect grounds and the other light from the marker to the solid one.

I hope that works.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got the lights working, but now everything else in the LCD console is gone. Tach, speedo, everything. The only thing that works there now is the turn signals. The only way that I was able to get the signals to work was to connect the runing light wire (green w/brown dashes) to the ground along with the ground from the light to the bike. sum up: the pos is connected to the pos from the bike and the ground from the light is connected to the running light and the ground from the bike....and the console is dead. HELP!:confused:
 

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Same thing happened to my buddy's 929 last weekend. You blew a fuse. Don't worry about it. Jus get another one. He lost everything on his dash. If things don't work the way they should after you replace the fuse, check the wiring inside the marker. His came from LP all screwed up.
 

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Just taped. The wires touched, I think. He apparently didn't do a good job taping, though. Things were pretty screwed up when I got there, so i don't know the whole history. He did take the actual marker apart, and found that the insides were screwed up from the factory. I'd take a look at that. I'd say he went through 5 or 6 fuses before he got it right. I'm not sure how many/if any were because of the marker, but that may have played a role. I know he got things working, and the turn signal light on the dash stayed on, like it was hooked to the running light. It flashed when the blinkers flashed, but stayed on otherwise.

Good luck.
 

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Boat, I replaced my F4i's markers with short stalks from LP and had the same melting problem. I believe the problem with the LP lights melting is not a problem with the wiring but with the design of the light. Your front lights are three wire so you can have a running light (on all the time) and a signal. The bulb for the LP's I have is the same wattage as the stock but the housing is much smaller than the stock and does not have the heat shield the stock does. When my LP's started to melt I took my stock markers apart and cut pieces of the heat shield out and glued :) them into the back of the LP. No more melting. If you have two wire lights now you have single filament bulbs and I don't think you will be able to have running lights and signals. The three wire lights you got from LP have dual filament bulbs and work as marker and signals. I don't know if you will have room to put a shield in your flush mounts. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Found what my problem was: The turn signals will not work if the running light does not have a closed circuit. To do this, I had wired it in to the ground wires from the bike and the light. The problem with that is that it blows the fuse HARD!!! To rectify this problem, (and dtlaine; the problem that your friend had with the signal indicators staying on all the time could eventually be a problem) I had to get a resistor wired into the whole mess. The correct one is a 2.2 ohm resister that has a high watt capacity. You need the high wattage cap because the thing will melt if it doesn't. This will keep the watts down and prevent the fuse from blowing. Aslo, it keeps the display honest and with a little shrink tube it looks very professional.:mad: :D :mad:
 

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GREAT! I just bought some short stalks for my bike from LP dual filament.

Does this mean the little bastards will melt?! Just my luck:mad:

Anyway to prevent this before I install them?:confused:
 

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Unless you really want the running lights, just get the single filament. I think it looks better, but some people are more safety conscious than me.
 

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Well, Knight, I've had my short stalks on my F4i for about 6 months now, and no problem with melting. I used a test light to figure out which wire was which. Took a little while, but I figured it out. And if a dumb jarhead like me can figure it out, anyone can.

And, Boat, welcome back, bro. Ride safe up there in Jax. OH, and just a silly question.....is the driftwood still open?!? LMMFAO
 

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I also used a test light to find the running wire and the turn wire, and i have the flush mounted, they look very nice!! (see pics) :D I haven't had any melting problems and mine are on all the time.
I do have a friend that installed the flat flush mounted kind in the rear of his f4, and they started to melt also......I think it has to do with the cheep plastic on some models......I think that heat sheild would be a good idea!!:D
 

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I installed some flush mounts on the tail of my f3. Never had any problems with them melting though. Electronics For Marines... MCI course #???? Good that you got your problem solved. And welcome home, It's looking like I'll be going over there in July.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks to all of those welcome backs...just one problem, I left again (back in Bahrain as I write this) But, I sucked it up and found the real problem that I was having. You cannot have the running light on a single filament bulb w/o the resister that I was talking about. I ended up capping the running light wire and now its works great, just no running light (that was what was making it melt earlier). The color codes for the F4I - the turn signal light on both sides is green with brown dashes on it, this gets connected to the ground (black with white stripe) on the signal. The left side is orange and the right side is blue. The running light is the one with the stripe on it (either color). This is the one that gets taped off. The other wire (solid blue or orange) gets connected to the red wire off the signal....

Note: If you have been reading all of the threads to this post then you know that I am not a professional. Don't take my word as gospel......

May the Force Be With You:cool:
 
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