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Discussion Starter #1
Took my bike yesterday to a shop in the area. Washington Cycle Works in Washington township. They setup my suspension for me. The difference in the handling is like night and day...Vastly improved...and all for $35. After they finished setting up the bike they sent me down this winding, twisty country road to test ride it. Oh yeah, like I actually wanted to go back:D This is something I wanted to get done for a while, but never got around to it for one reason or another. I would highly reccomend to have your bike setup if you want to improve your ride.:thumb:
 

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its the first thing i do when i get a new bike and i usually wind up trying some new settings after i get familer with the bike. the adjustments are in your owners manuel, the hardest thing is identifying what the "real world " on the highway effect is of changing each adjustment. i gotta agree it is probably the best time, or money spent on a bike. glad to hear you were happy with the shops service.
 

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One important thing to do is put down info on paper as to the moves of all your settings & which way like clock-wise or counter-clock-wise. In some cases also go down to bottom then count them to factory setting & with that you can go back to stock settings again if you so wish.

There is far, far more to it, but the above makes it simple & you will not be lost as to what you have done the past few times. NOTHING like no records & you still going the wrong way when you think it is the other way.
 

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Do you know what exactly they did? Loosen it up a bit from stock? Decrease compression in the front, back? Decrease ride height?
 

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From the thread title, I was half expecting you to tell us you went down and got a lap-dance or something. :twofinger Congrats on the setup. Enjoy it, just don't crash it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I know they adjusted the front and rear sag according to my wieght Stiffened up the front end...less dive when I apply the brakes. I have to wait till they open next week to get the exact #s as to the changes that were made. They keep a log of changes that they make on customers' bikes.
 

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im almost 300lbs and I just got the 06 zx6r...think i should have my suspension tuned? to stiffen it a little because of my weight?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
fauzt0 said:
im almost 300lbs and I just got the 06 zx6r...think i should have my suspension tuned? to stiffen it a little because of my weight?
Most definently
 

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You can do it yourself. Your owner's manual explains how to change the preload. As Smitty said, just remember to write down where you start and how many turns you move.
 

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fauzt0 said:
where would I go to do that? Or can I do it myself?
Talk to racetech. I'm almost positive that you will have to get stiffer springs, as that weight is outside the stock spring range. Preloads can only do so much
 

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i think i read somwhere probably here, that if u want to go fast then a stiff suspension is best. so i have my preloads and everything set at 1/4 turn from the hardest setting. as i am sometimes moved to go quite fast for no reason at all :)
 

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Suspension is a compromise, there is no right solution.
The basics go like this. The suspension has a certain range thru which it can move, around 5in. Make that range larger, and you raise the center of gravity. This is why race cars are so low to the ground, while offroaders are lifted.
Now when suspension encounters a load (from a bump, or from braking) it compresses. Make the springs too soft, and the suspension will bottom out under the load (when it bottoms out, it stops working). Make the suspension too stiff, and it wont respond to light loads (such as bumps).

So if you are on a smooth track, then the suspension needs to be pretty stiff to allow you to brake heavily (when the forks bottom out the bike stoppies, which mean you cant brake anymore). But the same suspension will be useless over a bumpy surface, because the bike will jump up and down and will be impossible to control.

On to preloads. They arent really preloads, they dont preload anything. They do set where the suspension rests in its stroke.

Say you got 5in of travel. With the bike and rider just sitting there, it should drop 1.2" on the suspension. that way it has 1.2" in expand, and 3.8" to contract. But what if it doesnt? thats where preloads come in, they change that default point, to get you enough travel both ways. What they dont do, is change the ammount the spring travels under a certain load. So if you got more of a load, you need stiffer springs.
 

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In some case the bikes are NOT with adjustments for pre-load, re-bound or compression at front & rear & yes that even means some of the later bikes. A saving to the makers & so a saving to the rider when buying.

I see Vash has been doing some reading & know he has been working on his own bike, so that gives you some honest to gosh first hand information from a regular.

Sometimes in Road Racing World & a few others they have some good info in by some of the pro suspension people so that is good to read & possibly mark the mag for said info or remove & file it. I have files that go back to '47 of all darn things---well something like a maze of info in six different files & I have to start reopening some of the m/c mags of the past 10 yrs to start up some more files.


In some cases the rear shock is not up to snuff or is shot so while costly they are well worth it. The front fork major internal changes require a lot more & reason so many will send the shocks to a shop that specializes in such modifications. Admittely I use to do it myself, but will honestly admit so many of us were passing past experience to each other. Yes in many cases we were making mistakes.

The one mistake a lot will do with stock front & rear end suspensions is set them up with so much compression, re-bound & pre-load that they will have the bike's suspension closer to the old days & yes almost ridgid rear end. So you go at it in minor clicks at a time.
 
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