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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On my bike it seems very difficult to make a smooth shift from first to second. All my other shifts are fine, but the shifting from first to second is very rough. Not so much the clutch release, but the actual shift. It seems kind of loud and like it doesn't slip into gear as easily as the others. Any ideas? Also, what rpm do you guys shift at when you are riding around town?

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97 FZR 600
D&D Carbon Fiber Pipe

1990 5.0 Mustang
 

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I am no mechanic, but I will suggest synthetic oil to start... It made mine shift noticeably smoother.

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Kyle J.-
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Not a mechanic either, but I know that going from first to second is different than going from second to third, third to fourth, etc., because you are passing neutral in the process. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

As for RPM, I usually shift just 5K when cruising. It just sounds right (engine whine wise, I mean).

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Pete
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[This message has been edited by Pete (edited April 19, 2000).]
 

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I run Mobil syntec and it shifts more quiet than also than when on a diet of conventional oil. I notice also the bike shifts much more smooth when at higher rpm,like it's ready to be shifted. The loudest shift for me is when stopped and going from n. to 1st.

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Well,
1st thing is you have a Yamaha....not a bad thing at all...I have one and love her....the Yamaha's are known for their clunky gearboxes...engineering thing I guess....Synth oil helps....the reason it clunks the way it does, and all gearboxes do this...not just Yammies...Yams are just louder than others...is because the gears are spinning even when idle...the clunk you hear from neutral to first is the shift fork pushing the gear dogs on the gears over into the gear next to it, thus engaging into 1st gear...its kind of hard to explain....like they say pictures are worth a thousand words....I wish I had some to show what I mean....hope this helps a little

Ryan



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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I understand what you are saying( I have a had a few transmissions apart before, just not on a motorcycle). But, although first does clunk a little, it seems that the shift from first to second is the worst, no matter how I try to shift it. Is this normal?

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97 FZR 600
D&D Carbon Fiber Pipe

1990 5.0 Mustang
 

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Has it always been like that, or are you just noticing the noise recently? If it's new, then you might want to crack the cases open and have a look to make sure everything is OK.

For smoother shifting, look into getting a Factory shift kit. They are only about $50 I think, and they include a couple of parts for the shift mechanism that makes it a little smoother to actuate.

But like it has already been mentioned, 1st to 2nd passes neutral, and that causes some extra chunkiness in the shifting.

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My R6 was nasty shift from 1st to 2nd.
It was the first Yamaha I owned. I used
to own Kawis which are known for there
smoother trannies. Anyway I have a 2000
R1 which is supposed to be smoother shifting
and it's still rough. It's just the
nature of Yamahas going into 2nd. Synthetics
will help smooth it out, but it will always
be a little notchy b/c it's a Yami.


Don't Worry- Ride it like you stole it!


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I know that this is a Yamaha forum but just wanted to let you know that I have a '99 Kaw 6R and 1st to 2nd shift are really clunky on Kaws too. Sometimes it seems so loud that the whole friggin planet can hear it but, really, it's normal. If it's just noisy, that's ok. If you get a lot of missed gears as well, there's something wrong. don't sweat it.

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First, welcome to the land of Yamaha shifting. When I first got my R1, I thought something was terribly wrong. My previous bikes were a TL1000R and many GSXRs. The Suzuki's shift noticeably better. Yamaha needs to get its act together. There is a lot of slop in the shift linkage. I put on CFM rearsets and reverse shift pattern. It shifts much better, and it does not clunk, just clicks. My suggestion, get aftermarket rearsets like, Attack or CFM. Makes a world of difference.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No missed shifts, just a lot of noise. From what you all say I think what I am experiencing is normal. As far as buying parts to help the shifting, that would be great and may be in the future, but right now there is no money for it. Thanks again for all your help!

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97 FZR 600
D&D Carbon Fiber Pipe

1990 5.0 Mustang
 

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I'm agreeing with Ryan, it's a Yamaha tranny. Bottom line, this is my 3rd Yamaha and all have been clunky as shit. My only ?'s for you are did you get it used? If you did get it used the previous owner may have gone hog wild with clutchless upshifts/power wheelies. If not, my 2nd ? is do you do clutchless? If you do STOP!!! If you don't, it's normal.

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James


www.weaselracingR1.homestead.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes, I got it used, but I don't know how it was driven before me. It only had 2400 miles on it though when I bought it. I always use the clutch when I shift, so I guess the noise I am hearing is normal.

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97 FZR 600
D&D Carbon Fiber Pipe

1990 5.0 Mustang
 

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Geoff - Ain't you on the wrong Forum dude?
You want the one that says, "Bland Bikes".

Hehe.




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Mine is a little clunky too. In fact, I just posted another topic, because when I was racing over the weekend, it actually popped out of 2nd and back into 1st during a couple of starts, doing clutchless upshifts.

I also use the CFM rearsets with a GP pattern, and that helped, the linkage is very tight...no slop at all.

And I agree with the other reply, best way to get a smooth tranny is to buy a Honda! My old F2 racebike shifted real smooth, and I rode the hell out of it for 2 years without ever touching the transmission. And I never used the clutch to upshift on that bike either!

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I have to agree with most everything that was said. I have a new R-1 and the advice I was given by a bike shop employee that rode one all last year, was to use Motul 5100-SAE 15W50 Semi-synth. Semi you can add regular oil in a pinch. It made the trany shift smoother and quieter. Even the Tech said it was much better.I mostly shift clutchless but it works good either way.It still isn't as nice as some bikes I have had. The biggest thing was to hit the shifter hard enough and not soft toe it!Too timid on the shift from 1st to 2nd has resulted in an occasional miss.Then it seems to burr up a bit,and feel like it has a double klick going into gear. Later it returns to normal. I hope over time it will breakin smother. The 98 R-1's would trash the gears, but the 2000 has backcut gears to help it stay in gear. P.S. Don't use car based oils. They have the wrong additives in them. Good Luck Hal

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I figured out why I was having that shifting problem...the shift rod was breaking. The part inside the cover where the tabs actuate the gears and move against the torsion springs...anyway, one of the tabs broke off in the middle of a race, and I couldn't downshift anymore. Apparently that is a common problem with '99 R6's, because a lot of the expert racers had a couple of spare shift rods laying around (fortunately). But I hear that the new ones, and the service parts, have been heat treated or something so that they don't break so easily anymore.

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Hey R6Racer !! I had a similar problem on a Yamaha 500, 4 valve in about 1975. I replaced the shifter fork on the inside lever that turns the drum , about 3 times till I sold the bike. I would of thought they could have come up with a better deal by now. I dont know if it was a stress riser, bad design or the steel was to hard and brittle. Good luck Hal


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Help!! Need Advise

I am looking at a 2000 yzf600 with 10k on it....the bike is in great condition and is gold(custom paint)....It all looks good to me but im getting scared because the guy is telling me if you hit the throttle hard in second it slips into first..sounds like trouble to me , but he only wants 3g's for it. Would it cost me alot to fix this problem??Is it worth my time?? Right now I have a Kawasaki EX250 and sick of it!!..Itchin to go bigger!! Any help is greatly appreciated
 
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