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Discussion Starter #1
well its time to change the oil....i am gonna put a Hodna OEM filter and run Mobil 1 full sythetic...the one that comes in the grey bottle b/c i get the hookup on that at the local parts store....also are they certain torques i must abide by when retightening the drain plug and filter.....also i wanted to get a rear stand for my bike.....what do you think about Mobil 1? and where can i find a decent stand for cheap? thanks for the help
 

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AudioSolstice said:
well its time to change the oil....i am gonna put a Hodna OEM filter and run Mobil 1 full sythetic...the one that comes in the grey bottle b/c i get the hookup on that at the local parts store....also are they certain torques i must abide by when retightening the drain plug and filter.....also i wanted to get a rear stand for my bike.....what do you think about Mobil 1? and where can i find a decent stand for cheap? thanks for the help
All bikes have tourqe specs for drain plugs, and every nut and bolt on the bike...do not over tighten..

I know a ton of riders that use Mobile 1...so your good to go..As for a rear stand...you can snag a handy stand for under 50.00..sorry, I don't have a link...personally, I like the Graves rear stand, it's a tad spendy, but very easy to use, and it's a quality stand..:D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks hammer.....i wanted to specify that the Mobil 1 oil i was talking about was the full synthetic for cars...not the MX4T for bikes....would that be allright?..and that what type of torque wrench is recommended b/c i have a 3/8 drive torque wrench the kind you adjust with the numbers on the shaft and it clicks....made by snap-on tools
 

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Handy Industries

Handy industries sells a package of front and back for 99 bux plus shipping. Great deal!

They work great too. I just got mine!
Just search for them. Not too sure on the addy. Handy stands.

Your owner manual aught to have the tork specs. Least mine does!
 

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AudioSolstice said:
thanks hammer.....i wanted to specify that the Mobil 1 oil i was talking about was the full synthetic for cars...not the MX4T for bikes....would that be allright?..and that what type of torque wrench is recommended b/c i have a 3/8 drive torque wrench the kind you adjust with the numbers on the shaft and it clicks....made by snap-on tools
Haha..I should be so lucky to have a Snap-on...I have the craftsman...so what you have is more than Good..:thumb:

As for the oil, I don't recall if that has anit friction agents in it or not, but supposedly, those agents can cause your clutch to slip...personally, I spring for oil made especially for bikes..Motul synth...cost's more...but it works great...also, you only need to change oil every 3 thousand miles, anything sooner is a waste of $$$$$....Maybe someone else has some insight on the Mobil 1 usage...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks a appreciate all the help....i will probally run the Motul ful syn b/c thats what they sell at the local honda shop....and yep i would say 75% of all my tools are snap on.....i asked b/c some one said somewhere that those clicking torque wrenches will put too much torque down...i didnt want to break anything... :D

btw i have no owners manual but a pretty sticker on the frame that tells me what octane, oil type, plugs, etc

but does anyone know how many quarts my bike takes?

thanks alot
 

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Anything that has the starburst on it has the friction modifiers (extensive online research reveals that). And, yes, those types are often reported to cause a slipping clutch, so beware of using those.

This kinda question pulls in something of a flame war, since there are riders out there using the friction modifiers w/o trouble. I'm betting that they can get away with it because their clutches are essentially in brand-new condition, and so the friction alteration isn't great enough to cause slipping.
 

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Just to be on the safe side, I run Honda GN4 in the 929. What the manual called for, so that's what I use. Unless I'm out in the middle of nowhere and low on oil, then I had to use some Castrol. But mainly GN4.
 

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thompsonian said:
Just to be on the safe side, I run Honda GN4 in the 929. What the manual called for, so that's what I use. Unless I'm out in the middle of nowhere and low on oil, then I had to use some Castrol. But mainly GN4.
Funny you post that. Synthetics have advantages at extremes and are less vulnerable to contaminants in short run vehicles but frequent changes, 3,000 miles or 3 months, will afford very good service life on regular oil. GN-4 Honda oil is what's been run in my bike for 90,000 miles and it still runs like new. In the seventies, I put 143,000 on an air cooled 750 running nothing but Castrol GTX. That engine still ran OK.

I tried Honda's synthetic in my current bike around 50,000 miles and did have clutch slip problems so I changed the clutch and went back to GN-4. I have the same concern about GTX, using the friction modifiers, so haven't run it, just stayed with Honda's oil.

BTW, my current bike turned 89,000 while on the track and the older 750 was drag raced. Point being, they get run, not just putted around. They get good maintenance and get fully warmed up before to run hard, but they see red line with some frequency.

While there's certainly nothing wrong with synthetics, I'm not sure the extra expense is really worth it. Spend the difference on brake fluid changes and other maintenance items often overlooked.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yeah i will probabalyl run GN4 non syn and chnage every 2000 miles.....i dont want clutch problems

i also just bought a service manual so that should help me out with everything
 

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I run Mobil 1 synthetic in my Duc. I also have a dry clutch. If anyone has a website or anything where I can by that at a good price...please post up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
this is such a tough decision for me.....i am reading every where on the net how car oils are just as good if not better than bike oils.....but i went to parts411 and found some Castrol bike oils for cheap but my choices are again tough

Act Evo 4 stroke 10w40 $3.50 litre
R4 SuperBike 5w40 $8.21 litre
GPS 10w40 $6.57 litre

any experince suggestions? castrol says the 10w40 act evo is synthetic based and for that cheap is pretty great sounding

click here for product sites

Act Evo

R4

GPS
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks hammer....i will look into that but i kinda wanted to go the cheapest best quality route....so that might be out the pic i also think i will go with the act evo since it isnt very expensive
 

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Cheap?! Well, I use Shell Rotella oil (which I think is intended for diesel vehicles). That stuff's pretty damn cheap, but its also not synth, its dino. It works fine for me, but I haven't had a bike nearly as long as people like Dad, Smitty, and Hammer.

Regardless, my choice resulted from extensive online research, and works dandy for my needs (long trips, so oil always has been well-circulated and is thoroughly heated up).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yeah were i work at rotella T is all we use on our diesel engines....great oil...been using it on the old as ford and it still a kickin
 

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AMSOil...'cause nothing is too good for my girls. $8.99/qt, but so what?
 
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