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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick question, I was not informed about not using synthetic motor oil in my new ZX-6R. I changed to SEMI-synthetic motorcycle oil at 550 miles. The bike currently has 750 miles on it..

I was told that I should be using petroleum oils till about 2000 miles.. should I change my oil back to dino oil quickly or should I just leave it and continue using the Semi synthetic from now on.. then move onto FULL synthetic..? And whats the next recommended oil change if Im at 750 miles now..

Any help is greatly appriciated.
Thanks

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Y2k Straight RED Ninja ZX-6R, D&D carbon Slip-on.. Its all about PERFORMACE..!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
oh BTW.. did I just hurt my new bike by using the Semi-synthetic oil so soon..?? So far its not leaking, running smooth....................????

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Y2k Straight RED Ninja ZX-6R, D&D carbon Slip-on.. Its all about PERFORMACE..!!!
 

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From everything I have been told you are probably okay as long as you followed the recommended break-in protocol that your manufacturer recommended up to that point.

Clutch slippage is usually the adverse effect of synthetic oil, assuming proper break-in has been done. If the clutch is affected then changing back to dino oil will not fix the problem... you will need to replace the clutch plates(fiber ones). If the clutch is not slipping then I wouldn't worry about it. Use which ever type you want.

I'm no expert.

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John

"If Harley made an airplane... would you fly in it?"
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Aril, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by RedNinja6R:
I was told that I should be using petroleum oils till about 2000 miles.. should I change my oil back to dino oil quickly or should I just leave it and continue using the Semi synthetic from now on.. then move onto FULL synthetic..? And whats the next recommended oil change if Im at 750 miles now..<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

550 miles is probably a little early for a switch to synthetic but not by much. The reason for NOT using the synthetic before the motor is broken in is to let the piston rings seat properly which is hard to due witha synthetic oil. I would not switch back to a non-synthetic now, however I would switch to a full synthetic. Your wasting your money with semi-synthetics in my opinion. Which oil did you go with? If it is truly a motorcycle synthetic then your clutch should be OK. The problem with using synthetics is the friction modifier package it contains but if you did use a motorcycle specific oil your safe.



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RLJ3RD
"The only thing worse than regret is not trying"
 

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RLJ3RD is pretty well bang on with what he said. only disagreement i got is that u should go back to "dino" for one oil change interval. The whole thing about not using synthetic oils right away is to allow engine to wear in. This is how i broke in my bike. 500km changed oil and filter. 1100km 1st service which included oil and filter. Im planning on changing oil again at 3000km. at this point i will go to FULL synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil. BTW 1000km's is about 625 miles miles. once i got my full synthetic in i will go 2500kms between changes.

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I totally agree with The Toy as well,
during break-in you want friction to due it's
job - synthetics are too frictionless. I would
change back to regular 'dino' if I were you.
It's worth it - you only break in your motor
once.

Chris


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I will reply again on this subject due to the fact of what oil comes in the new Yamaha's and what is recommended by the factory. :) They want you to use the Yamalube 4 oil which, if you were to read on the back of the bottle, some of the things stated are, "Synthetic anti-shear additives prevents oil breakdown caused by motorcycle, ATV, and scooter wet clutch gearbox/transmissions in 2 and 4 stroke engines." the next line states, "Extra amounts of synthetic anti-wear additives provide greater protection during cold starts when the majority of engine wear occures." Their oils are a "Semi-synthetic" oil, even though it does not state that any where on the label of Yamalube 4, just in the fine print. As I said before :) as long as it is Semi-synthetic oil, you are OK. I used the recommended factory oil until my R1 had 2500 miles then I switched to "fully" synthetic Mobil 1 MX4T. It worked, just fine, no oil consumption or loss between my oil changes then or now, which I do every 1000 miles (probably a little bit much but as cheap as oil is, even at $8.00 a qt., it's better than a premature rebuild). The engine pulls strong all the way to the redline in 6th gear and feels like it's wants to go more. Sorry if any of you take this personal, it's not meant that way, I just wanted to point out some facts. :D

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Marty
 
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Who is this KID????? ;) j/k

Hey man,

Yamaha uses Semi-synthetic oils, because they have frail engines(and clutches :D)
... now when you get a real bike , Like a ummmmm lets say a ZX6 :), You need a little grinding action in the case or .. well let's face it, it will never break in!!! :)
Then go to a Semi-synthetic oil! :D

P.S Yes I drive a Kawasaki.

P.P.S What is the break in period for a Yamaha , let's say Your R1 ?

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Whatever that little sheep said is a damn lie !!

[This message has been edited by Squidwannabe (edited August 31, 2000).]
 

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Originally posted by Squidwannabe:
[Who is this KID?????]
------It's Yamaha! :D

[Hey man,]
------Hey Squidwannabe, :)

[Yamaha uses Semi-synthetic oils, because they have frail engines(and clutches]
------They are designed that way to be dependable, light and sooooo FAST! :eek:

[... now when you get a real bike , Like a ummmmm lets say a ZX6 :)]
-----Now Squidwannabe, maybe not for you, but my Bike is "real" enough for me. :) :D

[You need a little grinding action in the case or .. well let's face it, it will never break in!!!]
-----You get a "little" with "Semi"-synthetic. :p :) :D

[Then go to a Semi-synthetic oil!]
-----I have! :D

[P.S Yes I drive a Kawasaki.]
-----That's cool. :cool:

[P.P.S What is the break in period for a Yamaha , let's say Your R1 ?]
-----Stated in the Manual: Do not put an excessive load on the engine for the first 1000 miles. Avoid prolonged operation above 5000 rpm's for the first 600 miles. Avoid prolonged operation above 6000 rpm's for the next 400 miles. Change oil and filter at 600 miles and beyond 1000 miles the vehicle can be operated normally.

-----That's it from the KID! Later.



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Marty
 

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Again the mileage issue is a personal preference. If ya really wanna know poll the different oil manufacturers, I did. None of them (Redline, Royal Purple, Motul, these are only a few) gave me feed back on mileage numbers greater than 750. I'll take their word for it since they are making the stuff. I actually went to the 3500 mile mark on some advice only to get different info from the oil manufacturers themselves. Had I known this information I would have switched earlier. Most of the oil manufacturers are listed on my web site. Look for the motorcycle links section under consumables. http://yzfr1.sportbikeworld.com

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RLJ3RD
"Those whom the gods would destroy they first make proud"

[This message has been edited by RLJ3RD (edited August 31, 2000).]
 

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Since we are on the subject, I had a local mechanic tell me that it didn't matter what type as long as it had antifoaming additives and was changed around 2000 miles. This goes in my 900SS mind you, not some junky 6R. Just kidding Kawi fans! I asked the Aprilla race team in Daytona (the Ducati team wasn't around) they said didn't really matter (with antifoaming) just change it regularly. Granted they dissasemble the motor each week. The mechanic says he uses 20-50 castrol car oil and hasn't ever had problems. Thoughts,comments etc?

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On another forum this issue has come up repeatedly. A chart from an industry study was posted on the forum. Basically it showed that below 2000 miles they all exhibited similar wear characteristics. That is dino oil, synthetic blends, full synthetics and those with additives. After 2000 miles it did start to make a difference. The synthetic blends were better than dino and the full synthetics were better than the others. It showed that most of the sythetics were engineered in a way which greatly reduced carbon residues from high temps. There are numbers for this stuff and I have forgotten the name and can't find the thread on the other forum. The study used about every oil brand and type you can think of. Brand name didn't make a lot of difference.

This was not a test of motorcycle oils. It covered primarily cage type oils. Mobile 1 synthetic was one of the best in the study. I did remember that. I use it in my lawnmower now. :p :D

Let me summarize... use what ever you want but change it at 2000 miles. :cool:

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John

"If Harley made an airplane... would you fly in it?"
 
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Also when I change my oil, I also change the oil filter and air filter(if its k&n type, wash it). :)

Oil filters do a lot on a bike and shouldn't be neglected..

Also check your oil for stuff ... Long strands of fibers (look at yer clutch), small particles of metal(not so bad, more common at break in), large particles BAD, sell bike!



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If somebody sounds as though they might know more than you, talk more and louder.
 
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