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658 Posts
This is always a contentious topic on any motorcycle board. If you do a search on here you'll find a number of threads full of arguments why each type is "the best." However, you'll not find any conclusive proof. In the end, if you use a quality oil in the weight specified for your bike (probably 10W40 or 10W50) and change it at the specified intervals, you'll never have an oil-related problem. I use Shell Rotella 5W40 synthetic diesel oil, as do many others. Some even use the 15W40 Rotella diesel oil with great success. Others swear by Mobil 1, Amsoil, or Royal Purple, but a motorcycle-specific oil is not necessary - any oil of the proper weight will be fine. Just change it regularly. Remember that none of the m/c manufacturers refine oil, so their oil is a repackaged version of something else and therefore not a good deal. The same applies to filters.

Look here for some interesting reading on oil and filters. Be sure to check out the other sections on the LH side of the page for info on filters too.

4 Posts
Its very nice bike.The ZX6RR engine is a liquid-cooled,DOHV,16-valve, 599cc,four cylinder, four-stroke engine that delivers performance worthy of AMA Supersport competition.To give racers and sport bike enthusiasts even more power,Kawasaki engineers changed the shape of the combustion chambers, redesigned the piston crowns and added molybdenum coating to the skirts to reduce friction and mechanical loss.The ZX6RR's engine rests inside a pressed aluminum perimeter frame that is rigid and delivers crisp and stable handling performance.Sheets of aluminum are pressed to shape,then welded together,to produce remarkable strength and low weight.An aluminum subframe is also lightweight and is easily removed for conducting routine maintenance.

6 Posts
Lubricate chain with lubricating oil (better performance than expected, but need to clean up after cycling trip). Never used grease.
Wheel bearings, bottom bracket bearings, I am about to road-test new lubricant this weekend if the weather permits (grease may be out-dated)

3 Posts
Every new bike will taste new oil and it become its habit according to that oil's density. So, we should be careful while choosing oil. You should know that which oil is better for you, and you should choose that oil.

1 Posts
Lubrication of the bike is depended to your use.You always use the goo quality lubrication in the bike otherwise many problems occur in your bike.

2 Posts
How to clean and lube your bike: -
a five-minute hosedown and appliance of bless beeline afterwards your ride will advice accumulate your bike active smoothly, if not exhibit shiny. But nobody's absolute - atomic of all us - so here's how to about-face austere grime.

Time: 1 hour

Skill rating: Easy

Cost: Degreaser, grease, chainlube (approx. £15)

Tools you’ll need


Very hot baptize

Washing-up liquid

Brushes and sponges

Old toothbrush

Narrow flat-blade screwdriver

Old spoke




Chain lube


1] Abrade the chain

The alternation is the a lot of important allotment of the transmission. The aboriginal footfall to charwoman it is to use hot baptize — cutting elastic gloves will advice you use hotter, added effective, water. Add approved washing-up aqueous to your brazier of baptize and acquiesce it to cream up.

With the alternation in the bigger gear, administer the admixture agilely application a annealed barb ablution brush. You’ll see a bright, animated alternation emerge.

2] Degrease the chain

With the alternation chargeless from dirt, administer a biodegradable degreaser to the alternation and acquiesce it to absorb into all the links. This will abolish any bits and adhesive residues you can’t see, and accomplish for a free-running chain.

Rotate the cranks backwards a few times to get the degreaser appropriate into the links. Acquiesce to drip-dry, or ablution off with apple-pie water.

3 Apple-pie the chain

Use a bendable rag to apple-pie the alternation absolutely apple-pie — you’ll be afraid what still comes off a clean-looking chain. You’re aggravating to beating the links, affective them through as advanced a ambit of movement as accessible — this helps betrayal the sections of hotlink commonly hidden from view.

4] Bless the chain

Apply bless alone if the alternation is clean. We adopt to bless a alternation as little as possible, with as ablaze a bless as we can get abroad with. Use a dripper bottle, because it’s easier to administer accurately and with minimum wastage.

Coat the accomplished chain, spinning the cranks to force the bless into the links. That’s area bless is a lot of advantageous — not blanket the alfresco plates, as abounding believe. Apple-pie balance bless abroad with a rag.

5] Apple-pie cables

Slide the outers to betrayal ahead covered sections of close cable. Accord the absolute close cable a wipe-over with a area of rag blood-soaked in degreaser. If you appear beyond any sections that are rusty, alter with a new close cable. A lot of dry cables can be reinvigorated with a little ablaze grease.

6] Bless cables

The best way to administer grease analogously to a cable is to aboriginal administer the grease to a apple-pie (lint-free) rag. Holding the rag in one duke with the anointed area amid deride and forefinger, acclaim compression the area of close cable in the rag and draw it through.

The abstraction is to acquiesce the grease to get into the accomplished strands of the cable after creating any blobs of grease.

7] Abrade foreground mech

Front mechs consistently suffers from neglect. They’re harder to admission and are generally awash abounding of dry mud, and accept pivots drier than a Jacob’s Cracker. The aboriginal affair you can do to get your foreground mech accepted appropriately afresh is to administer bleared bubbling water. Use a baby besom to get appropriate into the parallelogram and beneath the band.

8] Apple-pie foreground mech

Give the mech a acceptable traveling over with the rag. Use a attenuate band of rag to cilia admitting the physique of the foreground mech — this allows you to accessory the body. Don’t discount the central of the foreground mech cage, as these get appealing besmeared from abrading the alternation all day. A brace of account and you should accept a aflame foreground mech.

9] Scrape out rear mech

There’s no point accepting a free-running alternation if the jockey auto of your rear mech are bunged up. Use an old batten or the brand of a thin, flat-bladed screwdriver to anxiously angle out any old grass and adipose gunge that’s trapped amid the jockey auto and the mech arm ancillary plates.

10] Abrade Jockey Wheels

With the austere crud gone, use a little degreaser and an old besom to abrade the jockey auto (not apathy the abdomen of the mech arm). It’s accessible to alleviate the jockey auto from the mech arm, but we don’t acclaim you do so unless you’ve got a cilia lock to use if reinstalling the axis bolts. Sadly, we’ve apparent too abounding rides concluded by basal jockey auto falling out.

11] Bless Jockey Wheels

Re-lube the jockey wheels. They absolutely alone charge the actual lightest blow of lube, as they’ll aces up abundant from the alternation through use. Bethink these little auto allure a lot of dirt, and with bless getting sticky, it doesn’t pay to accomplish affairs worse by debauchery it. Apple-pie the balance abroad with a rag. They should attending dry.

12] Unclip cables

Set the rear apparatus into the bigger rear sprocket and then, after absolution the rear caster spin, about-face into the aboriginal rear sprocket. This will chargeless up a agglomeration of close cable and acquiesce you to pop the outers from the slotted cable stops on the frame. With the cables now absolutely unclipped from the anatomy you can inspect, clean, re-lube and reinstall everything.

13] Bless Foreground Mech

Use the bless dropper canteen to administer drops of bless to all the pivots on the foreground mech. These yield a lot of load, and can use all the advice you can accord them to abide mobile. About-face the mech into the aboriginal chainring and again plan the parallelogram with your fingers to get the bless formed in.

14] De-Gunk Rear Sprockets

The rear sprockets are the final anchorage of alarm on this bike aliment abstruseness tour. They’re abounding of technology to advice faster shifts, but aswell abounding of grease, mud and grass. Aces the affliction chastening out with an old batten or the brand of a thin, collapsed screwdriver. You’ll be afraid what hides in those bound spaces, even on expensive, accessible admixture carrier versions.

15] Abrade Rear Sprockets

Get the hot bubbling baptize on them and get ablution with a brush. Absolutely adamant grot can be confused with a dosage of degreaser and addition hit with the ablution brush. Getting to the backs of the sprockets can be tricky, but it’s absolutely account persevering, as the cleaner you accomplish it, the beneath simple it is for new mud to stick.

16] Apple-pie Rear Sprockets

Give the sprockets some flossing with your band of rag. This helps dry the sprockets, and aswell buffs abroad any outstanding marks. The cleaner you can accumulate your sprockets, the faster they’ll about-face and the best they’ll last. Clay acts like a cutting adhesive if in acquaintance with any allotment of your transmission, so get rid of it.

Tip: don't overlook the accepted clean-up

You can get abroad with just charwoman the important parts, but a abounding wash-down should be allotment of your approved post-ride plans. Yield the auto off the bike and ablution everything, alpha with the base of the saddle and alive downwards.

Tip: bless the pivots

Add a bead of bless to your anchor batten pivots — they dry out too and plan bigger with some aqueous love. Ditto the shifters. For SRAM X.9/X.0 gears, artlessly alleviate the top caps and bead a few drops on the bounce and cable nipple. With Shimano, disengage the artificial chow spiral and put a few drops central afore replacing the chow screw.

Tip: brightness it off

If you adulation your bike, appearance it offby demography a bendable besom and some nice brightness and giving the paintwork a buffing it’ll never forget. Apart from authoritative the bike attending shiny, it aswell helps accomplish it harder for clay to stick to the anatomy the next time you’re out.

Tip: hot baptize and bactericide FTW

The exchange is rammed with bike charwoman fluids, and they’re mostly appealing good. A lot of are activated application a activate canteen spray, acute you to leave it on for 30 abnormal and again ablution off with a brush.

That’s all able-bodied and good, but we accept just as abundant success with car absterge and hot water. You can even use abrasion up liquid, but bethink it contains alkali so you wish to be abiding you get it all off. For all the business hype, the bactericide and the grime-busting backbone of bleared hot baptize are harder to beat. Accept a acceptable alternative of sponges and brushes accessible to get into all the nooks and crannies.


"It never gets easier, you just go faster."

45 Posts
Lubricant is a component which is useful to reduce some Conflict between surface. You have to chose one of the best lubricant for your bike and good lubricant is contain with this characteristic. Low freezing point, thermal Vasilis and etc.

34 Posts
Well as long as you are maintaining and replacing your lubricants periodically, there is no need for synthetic base, but if you use it a race bike it would be great investment to use synthetic based.
I usually order Repsol oil from 4 Wheel Online. For my daily driven bike, I only use mineral grade and change the oil and filter every 5000kms, but with my race bike, i only use fully synthetic oil and replace the oil and filter every 3000kms.
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