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Discussion Starter #1
As I said in my other post, my GS500 ran perfectly for 70+ laps. It even taught me three very important lessons:

1. It won't run without fuel. :eek:
2. I like riding better than pushing. :eek:
3. If it won't start, check the kill switch. :eek:

Well, you get the picture. I'm knockin' on wood but the the bike was flawless and... here I sat yesterday, talking about how I am now in a "maintenance" situation and all I have to worry about for the next race is entry fees and travel costs. :D

Then, five minutes later, like some drug kicking in.... I'm deciding to change the rear shock to something more adjustable, move the rearsets, get rid of the fat clunky stock pegs, upgrade the carbs and filter and replace and move the can.... :eek: :eek: :eek:

What's happening to meeeee...... :eek:
 

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You have to have spares, right? So buy new rear sets with pegs and controls included, the old stuff will be the spares. And you’ve got to get a keyless gas gap to reduce possible f’ups. If you need any more spending ideas just ask. :D
 

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I have seen the future and it goes something like this:
<one year from now>...
For sale- GS500 race bike. Bored to 640cc, Falicon crank, cams, R1 bodywork (Sharkskinz), GSXR 705 USD front end, Marvic wheels, Pirelli slicks (just scrubbed in), much more. Over $8500 invested, asking $3200 OR TRADE FOR SV650!
 

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Tristan said:
I have seen the future and it goes something like this:
<one year from now>...
For sale- GS500 race bike. Bored to 640cc, Falicon crank, cams, R1 bodywork (Sharkskinz), GSXR 705 USD front end, Marvic wheels, Pirelli slicks (just scrubbed in), much more. Over $8500 invested, asking $3200 OR TRADE FOR SV650!

ROTFLMFAO so true so true
 

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How about the carbon fiber gas tank cause that'll take 2 seconds a lap off. Of course you have to replace any stickers from the old tank cause they added at least 20 hp right?????
 

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Discussion Starter #9
:rolleyes:

LMAO! (But secretly writing down all those possible mods and breathing heavy) :p

You, know, this sport needs another smilie real bad... a take off on the old cartoon image of ^$^ , the dollar sign with wings representing money flying away. ;)
 

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I wasn’t kidding about the rearsets/pegs/controls.

Does your bike have race style clip-ons? The bar is just a piece of 7/8” od pipe, it’s the part likely to fail in a crash so it’s nice to have a pair for spares. ProFlo has them for $20 in a choice of colors, I went wild and got black. Or I’ve heard you can go to a shop that does race cars for the 7/8 pipe that they use. Do something to plug the outside end of the pipe.

http://www.pro-flo.com/proflo_clipons.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey Bob,

I've got clubman bars on there now. They work ok but are kind of far forward. Their hump is not quite wide enough to allow full clearance around the outer limits of the triple clamp. If they could, I'd swing them a tad more aft. Probably couldn't too much, though, because of the clearance needed for the steering damper on the left side along the bottom of the tank. Let's just say they work good enough @ $22 for now and are a ways down the list for upgrades.

In my mind (contrary opinions are welcome :) ), the pegs are the thing. As the bike was run this last weekend, I was dragging the long fat rubber stock pegs on both sides fairly easily. I think they are the limiting factor now. That means that upgraded rear shock should make their limitation even more pronounced as overall handling is improved. I have a plan to have our local welding shop either make me a set of cheap extension plates that just relocate my stock mounting holes... or weld a scarfed piece into the stock rearsets that moves the pegs up and back. They might also be able to cheaply build up from the steel rod core that runs through the stock pegs (under all the rubber). The other possibility is to take a "close fit" aftermarket race peg from another bike and make it fit.

Once the pegs are out of the way, though, the stock can looks like it will drag next. It also limits doing much with the carbs. If I'm going to relocate it, I might as well put on a better one at the same time as I already have a set of carbs with jets and a pod filter. I just need to knock out the stock air box and bolt them in.

That just about finishes off.... oh yeah... :eek: I ordered a race tail section from Air Tech yesterday. It is made for this bike and supposed to use all the stock mounting holes. That will let me pull my numbers up out from behind where the new can will be.

And stickers :cool: I gotta get me some FAST stickers! :D :D
 

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definately get some spare levers, brake pads, and that type of stuff.

I would recommend clipons with replaceable tubes too...

Track days/racing is like heroin...feels soo good, so addictive, and so expensive :eek:
 

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you sv guys don't understand the easy part of racing an old, now worthless lw. first, all the really fast experts at one time built awesome ex500's, gs500's, fzr400/460/560's, and nt650/700's and saw the sv, saw what it could do and sold their awesome bikes and built various frankenstien sv's. new racers bought these frankenstein hawks, ex's, fzr's and gs's. they eventually crashed, had trailer accidents and learned that hyper-motors like to vent things.

therefore, they started parting out all kinds of cool parts for each of them (hell, it's cheaper to buy an sv then rebuild the old bike).

the parts are out there--used and cheap. now the question is, how many do you buy before you go to the darkside (suzuki's evil little v-twin)? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
"...the question is, how many (go-fast parts) do you buy before you go to the darkside (suzuki's evil little v-twin)?"

Tony, that's exactly the point the guy that's helping me made:

"Don't get caught up in putting money into the GS500. It is more cost effective to buy a faster bike than to try to make a little one perform above its class. With the GS500, spend a little on handling but mostly on RIDING. Then, if you get better, move up and let another beginner have your bike to start on."
 

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Joss said:
As I said in my other post, my GS500 ran perfectly for 70+ laps. It even taught me three very important lessons:

1. It won't run without fuel. :eek:
2. I like riding better than pushing. :eek:
3. If it won't start, check the kill switch. :eek:

Well, you get the picture. I'm knockin' on wood but the the bike was flawless and... here I sat yesterday, talking about how I am now in a "maintenance" situation and all I have to worry about for the next race is entry fees and travel costs. :D

Then, five minutes later, like some drug kicking in.... I'm deciding to change the rear shock to something more adjustable, move the rearsets, get rid of the fat clunky stock pegs, upgrade the carbs and filter and replace and move the can.... :eek: :eek: :eek:

What's happening to meeeee...... :eek:
Read my signature.:D
 
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