Sportbike World banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,373 Posts
I'm sure you can find a SBW member from that area to find out for ya:D


Ps. love the avatar. I wish i had 10 terry tate's on team felcher.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Tippmann......It doesn't surprise me a bit you came through with the compliment on the TTT. I have to say right back at you with the Boondock avatar. I'm a huge fan of the movie and the concept....this is exactly what our society needs. It seems like everytime I go home from college I hear another story about vandalism or theft in MY neighborhood back home. I dream about the night that these punks try something as our crew roles in from a midnight run....just once can this please happen...lol. Then we'll see how funny it is to throw eggs or break windows, but anyways.....

I realize I could take the bike out and hold it open untill I see god, but I figured it would be easier and safer to just ask some experienced crazy's what I could expect out of my f4i here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,373 Posts
Yeah, everyone here loves the saints. Its the official movie of the off topic section.


Anyway, i know my yzf 600r will read 150 on the tack. And I think f4's are supposed to be a little faster. So that should give you a general idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Hey it's fast check out the Sport Rider test on a stock 01 F4i

http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/performance/

CBR600F4i ('01) 1/4 mile 10.75 @ 127.09 Top speed 157

I think the Top speed is tested 0-2 miles and not your redline in 6th gear

Your bike is a little faster with the slip on and pcIII :burnout:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
bridomine99 said:
jardine slip on, pcIII, stock gears

Just curious????

A slip-on and a *well set up* PCIII should get you 4~5% more power. But know that just because you slap a Power Commander on a bike doesn't get you anything in and of itself. You need a good map and/or a tech that knows what he's doing. And since you obviously haven't dyno'd the bike (you'd give us the power output, right?), understand that you are throwing a map at your ride and hoping it sticks... I have seen bikes done with the same approach make more power with the PC *removed* than they did with it installed.

Not to mention that the real benefit of a device like a PC is better tractability from the motor and not necessarily peak ponies... And just because someone claims a given map for a PC gets you 5 more HP A) doesn't mean it's true and, B) on *his* bike, not yours... What gets perceived on the Butt~Dyno as "Awesome Top End Rush" can often be a hole in the midrange followed by normal performance. So you added a PC, maybe it's better, maybe it's worse. Have a pro set it up for you and dyno it so you know for sure..

Anyways - enough of the rant on Power Commanders...

Your top speed will be essentially unchanged, because that is dictated more by wind resistance than power output, and also somewhat because you haven't changed your gearing. The issue here is that wind resistance rises at the SQUARE of speed. So if your bike goes 160MPH on 100HP, it takes TEN THOUSAND (100 x 100) to reach 320. 100 times the output for twice the speed.

What you will gain is more acceleration, so it should take you less time to reach whatever your top speed is. And hopefully the map on your PC is a good one, so off~on throttle transitions and overall drivability are better than stock as well. Maybe that doesn't mean much to you, but what "better drivability" gets you is the ability to roll the power on sooner and more precicely than a competitor. If you can crack the throttle 20 feet earlier in a corner than your rival, that's an advantage he has no choice but to take back on the brakes at the end of the ensuing straight. *IF* he can do that, (you should have more or less equal brakes, right?), he's loading the front a lot more than you, and therefore is more likely to wash out the front end on corner entry.

If it sounds like this is stuff you can only really use at the racetrack.... Well... Yeah, somewhat. But a smoother motor is always more of a pleasure to ride, and a little more power is always appreciated. If you look at it from a street rider's perspective, engineering it for the most low/midrange gains gets you improvements you can use every time you pick the bike up off it's kickstand. The dyno might still say 105/45, but if you have more of that available to you sooner, then it's a *real* advantage, irregardless of what some Spec-Sheet-Racer says. Besides, a little noise just sounds so cool...

Having said that, you might now know why I generally try to tell folks to spend the $800 on a suspension rebuild instead of pipes and PCIIIs. That's where manufacturer's skimp the most, so that's where the most performance gain is to be had for your hard~earned. You don't even need to do a whole lot - Matching springs to each other and to your weight is the bulk of the battle.


Anyways - In one sentence - Your bike is probably no faster, but possibly a little quicker.

Scott :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,400 Posts
Scott is so correct in going for the f/forks lst then the rear shock ------- suspension before anything else will give you better handeling m/c.

Still (if there are no cops around or up in the air) & you are on a smooth road once the bike is at 80% full revs in top cog the smooth road will have become bumpy, much narrower then at the start & the rare bends come on so fast it is simply shocking. That is how fast your bike will go & you do not need to look at the speedo.

Once in a while I do this with my 929 going up a L-O-N-G steep hill & round 80% full chat all the above has come about along with the fact that my head, body arms, feet & all are in a vacume with no gear moving due to no wind, no wind to my helmet & the stock exhaust has toned down to a sort of woo-woo-woo note (for the shaking up & down of the now rough road is turning the wick up & down) & I can hear the rocker box clattering below the air box. Believe me that is FAST.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top