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Discussion Starter #1
well, i have to take all the plastic off tomorrow anyway so the damn DMV can look at some motor code to let me license my bike in their state, so i figure i'll change the oil while i'm at it.

i've never changed the oil on a bike before. i heard 5 quarts? Is there just some drain plug hidden under there somewhere? I have never looked.

i'm an idiot... so tell me if these steps are right.

1. take plastic off
2. drain through plug thing
3. change filter
4. fill

hows that?

what oil? synthetic? It is 105-115 degrees where i live now, so what weight oil? and does car vs. motorcycle oil even matter one bit? I thought i saw a specific kind for bikes, but i figured it was just overpriced auto oil.

and what kind of chain oil do you guys use? i've had the bike for 2.5k miles and i need to do some upkeep.

flame if you must, i don't really care. But if someone wants to help, please do.
 

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The oils are different for bikes and cars. Go to the local shop and get whatever weight they reccomend. Change the filter too!! It is a very easy job and it should only be about 3 1/3 qts or maybe a little more for your bike, not sure. I usually run the bike for a few minutes then drain it, oil is not too hot and comes out a lot faster. Do not torque the hell out of the plug!!!
 

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viocurse said:
i've never changed the oil on a bike before. i heard 5 quarts?
More like 3 quarts. Your owner's manual will tell you how much, how often, and what kind. The synthetic/dinosaur debate has become religious, so I won't even offer an opinion.

1. take plastic off
2. drain through plug thing
3. change filter
4. fill
The drain plug is sealed with an aluminum crush washer, probably 12mm, that should be replaced each time. Get a new one at your dealer. When installing the plug with a new washer, tighten enough to crush the washer but not much more. Use a torque wrench and follow the spec in the manual to get it right.

The filter is most easily removed and installed with a special oil filter wrench. Get one at your dealer. Before installing the new filter, wipe clean the sealing surface on the engine and coat the O-ring with fresh oil. Do not overtighten the filter or you'll have a helluva time getting it off. Again, use a torque wrench to get it right. It should be only a little more than hand tight.
what kind of chain oil do you guys use?
I use Pro Honda, but there are plenty of other good products out there. Again, a religious issue.
 

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I'm about to do an oil change to, does the filter look like a car filter or is it square with fins, keep in mind I have an 84 cb750ss. also is the drain plug directly on the bottom of the engine or is itoff to the side like on a cars pan?
 

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the f2 was 4 quarters when doing the filter. everything else pretty much covers it. just don't over-tighten stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
sorry data dan, but money is tight (thats why i ride a bike, i don't have a car) cause rent costs money. The bike didn't come with the manuel. I'll buy a new washer and filter, but i don't have a torque wrench or any of that. I have pliers though! and i'm sure my roomate has channel locks. Moved out about 2 months ago so I can't use daddies tools anymore (he's 1400 miles away), haha, starting my own colection.

Thanks for the info guys. I'm gonna go take her clothes off and drive to the DMV to get my AZ plates. BTW, did you guys get all excited when you passed emmisions too? 1st time in my life I had to do it because washington is slack in that respect. I was worried about not passing because the guy that tuned my carbs said he left them rich for when it finally cools down. i thought for sure i would fail... but no. 1011 hydrocarbons ppm, 2.27% carbon monoxide.
 

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SilentNEKO said:
I'm about to do an oil change to, does the filter look like a car filter or is it square with fins, keep in mind I have an 84 cb750ss. also is the drain plug directly on the bottom of the engine or is itoff to the side like on a cars pan?
I'm not sure what bike have because American Honda didn't import a 1984 CB750. If it's the older style DOHC four (the same basic design as the CB900 and CB1100) the oil filter is enclosed in the finned cast aluminum cartridge on the front of the engine. I don't remember where the drain plug is.

If it's the newer Nighthawk S engine, the filter is in the same location but is the simpler spin-on type, similar to that on the original poster's CBR.
 

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ya know many people have told me they didn't make an 84 cb750f supersport, but I have one, it has a kilometer speedometer which is annoying as all hell to look at, so it must have been imported by canada. yes thank you for the advise on the filter I know exactly what it is now, thats why I asked if it was square and finned.
 

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Hey silent...
CB750F, Supersport
there may be one of those rarities in Yellowknife. I see it around from time to time. Looks good mechanically, original paint & glass though - it is pretty faded. Blue. Could be wrong on the year but is close.
 

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Hi Silent....

Looks like the same model except you have fresher paint and that aluminum or brushed steel assembly you have your front and rear pegs mounted to, obscuring the swing arm is not on the Yellowknife bike. Is that feature standard? Otherwise they could be twins.

I will cruise the rest of your site later.
 

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from what I've seen some came with the assembly some didn't, I think it was a factory add on. well my paint was fresh befor the wreck, now I'm painting it piece by piece. after a few years I'll be giving up this bike for something more updated. like the new cb919
 

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SilentNEKO said:
I'll tell you what, look at my pictures...
Yup, that's the CB900F/CB1100F style motor, the one Freddie Spencer rode in Superbike before the class was downsized in '83.

When ordering parts, tell the dealer it's an '82, because they won't know what an '84 CB750F is.
 

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Your steps sound right. Depending on how your filter is positioned, you may want to put oil in the new filter before you put in on; less initial friction. Your manual should tell you how much you should put it the engine; it depends on if you fill the filter first or not.

Put it in; let it sit for a bit. Check you oil level window and fill in small increments if necessary.

You got it man, no sweat. soon, you'll be wanting to do other servicings yoursefl (chain tightening, valve inspection/adjustments).

You got. Good luck.:thumb:
 

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Removing the oil filler cap helps too. When draining fluid from the motor, the oil comes out and air has to come in (physics of displacement). Opening the filler cap allows air to come in that way, instead of coming through the drain hole... hence, faster draining and less splashing.
 

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DaDuck748 said:
Removing the oil filler cap helps too. When draining fluid from the motor, the oil comes out and air has to come in (physics of displacement). Opening the filler cap allows air to come in that way, instead of coming through the drain hole... hence, faster draining and less splashing.
No sh*t? (I'm not being sarcastic)....I didnt' know that. I'll have to remember that.....:thumb:
 
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