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Discussion Starter #1
ok what brand chain do ya'll recommend? X-ring, 0-ring,
DID brand, RX brand? is DID worth it, they boast 50-100% longer life.
 

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excellent question and anothe rone i might add is how often should chains be replaced? and if not a certain mileage how does one know
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well this is my first chain on this bike and i'm just under 14k. there should be wear markers on ur shifter side swing arm. usually notches. u should adjust it every so often as the chain wears.
 

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I usually adjust my chain when I get more than 2 inches of lateral movement with me on the bike. I'm not sure on when to replace though... I've been told that if the chain is well oiled and maintaned that it doesn't need to be replaced until it has stretched to the point were the tire cant be moved back further to compinsate but I really have no clue.

Sepias
 

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the time to change your chain is directly proportional on how you use your bike (fast acceleration and doing wheelies apply hard tension on the chains and therefore creates loose spots around the chain) and how well you maintain the chain. You should pop the rear end up on a stand and adjust the chain tension every so often (I do it about every 800-2000 miles as I do stunt the F2 a bit) and relube the chain with chain grease or lube (ever 600 miles).

Even if your bike gets wet, the grease/lube shouldn't wash off easily unless you used a pressured hose. When you adjust the chain tension make sure you find the tightest spot on the chain and adjust the tension to that spot. Depending on the bike, usually you should have an 1.25-1.5 inch worth of play going up and down from rest.

Now, if you notice that you have a tight spot and a very loose spot where you adjust the correct chain play on the tight spot and have something like 3+ inches worth of play, time to get yourself a new chain. If you incorrectly adjust the chain to be too tight, you risk of the chain breaking and could cause a wreck. Same goes for being too loose. If its too loose, not only would it be able to slap against the swingarm and cause damage (scratches but can grind into like a chainsaw), but you also risk the chain of falling off the sproket(s) depending on how loose it is. Hopefully you'll notice the sluggish performance of the bike and adjust the chain by then.

If you have an even wear pattern of the tension on the chain, then your tightest spot should "loosen" to the point of where when you adjust the position of the rear axel that you hit a notch or a marker on the swing arm saying "time to replace chain" or something to that effect. Check your bike's manual to be sure. Under normal vehicle use, depending on the quality of the chain, they should last atleast 15k miles (more with regular maintence). My stock chain that I'm still using on my F2 is still good but its getting to that point where I should start looking to get a new chain and I'm already at 21k.


As always, its better to give too much info then not enough.

Btw I'm also in the market for a new chain for the gixxer. I just got a +9 teeth rear sproket and planning on gett ing a -1 front sproket. I heard RX's were good.
 

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On the chain, its actually better to have it too lose than to tight.
If the chain is too loose, you risk it jumping off the sprocket, which would be very bad, but it has to be very very loose for that to happen. If its too tight it will wear out faster.

Try moving the chain from side to side instead of up and down. If it moves more than an inch get rid of it. Also if you like wheelies, check you rollers, I've had them come completely off before.
 

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RK, EK, DID, they all make good chains, but they also make crap chains. You get what you pay for - like everything else. I put an RK X-ring on my 600, even with used sprockets it was wearing great before I sold it.




-M-
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thx for the tips.

so do any of u think that the DID gold chains for $150 are worth the extra money? i dont stunt (very rarely get the front end up) but i do like to blast off at the green lights.

- ms posted at the same time i did thx for the input on the x-rings, it think i'll go that route.
 

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SkinnyJ said:
so lets say maybe everyone is not sure how to tighten the chain how would you expalin its doen :)
If possible set the bike on the rear stand
Rotate the rear wheel untill you find the tightest point of the chain
Remove cotter pin from the axle nut
Loosen axle nut
Unscrew the adjuster bolt on the side of the axle block
Tighten nut on adjuster bolt against the swing arm
Count the marks on the axle block, and compare to the other side (they will come out the same most of the time)
Adjust the adjuster bold on the opposite side to press against the axle block
Tighten and torque axle nut
Insert new cotter pin
 

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With all done last thing to do is with your weight on the saddle roll the bike forward just a bit at a time & check to see if you have a tight spot you had not noticed before. It so then do it over again check especially that tight spot on the chain.
 

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A chain that's to tight can also result in binding up the shock linkage..not good, I keep 1 1/2" of play in mine..when to replace it..well, being that my bike is for the track only..I replace it often..about every 2000 miles..but that's cuzz of hard acceleration on the track...Also, it's impetant to check your sprockets..both of em..and signs of wear, such as hooking ( teeth have a hooked apperance to them) it's time to get new ones. Aluminium sprockets tend to wear much faster than steel ones.

Chains...I've used about every brand out there..I prefer the DID EVRIII, although any brand that's near the top of the line chain is good, as long as you use a Rivet master link, and NOT the clip type..there's been Many cases where the clip has fallen off, and the chain soon followed, it's not worth the savings to cheap out on a clip type...

Adjust your chain when it Needs it, same goes for lubing it...

A good chain is gonna run ya around a 100.00 or so..more if you buy from a dealer...i.e. DID EVRIII from a honda dealer was 180.00...:eek: I pay way less for mine...:D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
so i'm thinking that $140 for a:

RK 520 XSO chain
Vortex 15 tooth steel front sprocket
Vortex 46 tooth aluminum rear sprocket

is about as good as a deal as i'm gonna get then eh?
 

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Ill look around online for ya Meat and see if I can beat those prices, but probly not. Just a front sprocket for my bike runs around $50.

Sepias

I take it you looked on ebay for those prices. I cant find stuff to beat em.

Sepias
 
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