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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm fixing an 80's honda shadow for a friend. It had "Electrical problems". Some time ago someone put a new ignition module on it (dont know if it needed it or not) and a battery, and then gave up and put it in a storage container. Two years later I rolled it out of there.
The electrical problem ended up being a bad starter solenoid (that took about 30 minutes to figure out. 20 of those minutes were spent trying to figure out how to get the seat off). Now the engine is cranking.
When placing a new spark plug into the boot, the plug fires. I have not removed the plugs from the engine (there are two per cylinder). Also, there were mud dobber nests in the air cleaner, and over the carbs ( those are bee like creatures that make their nests out of mud).
While I still have to bleed the brakes and clutch, I figure the engine will be ready to fire (or at least try to). So I drained the tank, which has a very annoying second tank underneath the seat, and drained the carbs.
My question is, is there anything I need to do to refill the bowls on the carbs? or will they refill by themselves when I get new gas in the tank?
 

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It seems to me that they would refill once you put some fuel back in, though you might need to let it crank a little bit. A friend of mine knows quite a bit about that kind of stuff, and I should see him tonight. If so, I'll see what he says.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks,
I really hope I dont have to take them apart. I got no way of syncing them.
 

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Put some diesel fuel in the tank. about a pint for 5 gallons. It'll smoke some but you'd be amazed how clean everything will get.

Just a side note: When I was a kid I ran a lawnmower with out any oil in it. It seized up and was f'd. My dad's friend came over loosened it up and ran some diesel through it. It ran like it was brand new and lasted several years after that.
 

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Vash, carbs will refill themselves. However, on my 80's Honda the fuel petcock wouldn't allow fuel to flow unless there was vacuum from the engine, which was a problem when I'd cleaned out everything. I ended up using a MightyVac to pull some vacuum to ensure the carbs were filled BEFORE I bothered to turn the engine over. This helped prevent the battery from dying out before I had a chance to get the engine fired up.

HTH.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The battery is another issue alltogether. So far, I've had jumper cables connecting it to my truck, and I see no reason why an engine cant be started that way. I'm told someone put a new battery in it before putting it up for two year storage. I dont know if I should bother trying to charge it (dont have a trickle charger) or just get a new one. The one in there is still the refillable kind, it might be better to just cough up $50-$70 and put a sealed battery in there.
And I gotta find a place to redo the seats... thats not going to be easy.
 

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I presume you checked the battery for fluid level then. If it was full, I'd definitely give it a shot charging it.

As for upholstery, many marine and auto upholsterers will do a good job for low cost on seating :2cents:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update: After much cleaning I put everything back together and tried starting it up. That when I found out that the chock lever only moves back a quater of the distance it should. Without choke, the bike does not start up (also it fires if you spray fuel into the intake).
I checked the chock cables, they seemed free, so reluctantly, I took everything apart again, and started disassembling the carbs. I was going at it from the diaphram side, so as to avoid removing the carb from the engine.
Come to find out, both the plunger that make the chocke valves are frozen in their bores. After much love and some WD40 one came loose. The other stayed stuck, and I tore the cable off it trying to free it.
New (used) carbs run for about $150 on ebay. If I can find some place to buy a new plunger, I can drill and tap the one in there, and force it out. Otherwise I'm afrain I'll have to change the carbs out.
 

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Update: After much cleaning I put everything back together and tried starting it up. That when I found out that the chock lever only moves back a quater of the distance it should. Without choke, the bike does not start up (also it fires if you spray fuel into the intake).
I checked the chock cables, they seemed free, so reluctantly, I took everything apart again, and started disassembling the carbs. I was going at it from the diaphram side, so as to avoid removing the carb from the engine.
Come to find out, both the plunger that make the chocke valves are frozen in their bores. After much love and some WD40 one came loose. The other stayed stuck, and I tore the cable off it trying to free it.
New (used) carbs run for about $150 on ebay. If I can find some place to buy a new plunger, I can drill and tap the one in there, and force it out. Otherwise I'm afrain I'll have to change the carbs out.
:eek: Tried penetrating oil or penetrating lubricant? I've had situations where WD-40 didn't cut it (no pun intended) but those did after a night's soak. I sure hope that carb replacement isn't necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I thought WD40 was penetrating. Anyways, Ronayers sells parts for carb year 85+. Dont know the year of the bike yet, but manual was printed in 84. I think its a fairly safe bet that carbs didnt change in between. The bike designation is the same VT700C.

Did I mention I hate carbs?
 

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Three of us then: carbs suck and I don't miss them.

Since the carb and the plunger are different materials, you might also consider heating up the area around the carb or cooling off (dry ice?) the plunger to create a little more space in there. I assume an easy-out won't help here either.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The plunger is brass, stuck in bore of an cast aluminum carburetor. I'm trying to keep from taking the carbs completely off the engine, mainly because I have no way to sync them if I do. As such, I'm not putting a torch anywhere near there, and the bore is too small to use dry ice effectively. My plan is to drill a small hole in the end of the plunger, and tap it. Then take a bolt (I should be able to get at least a #8 in there, maybe a #10) put a nut on it, than two washers of increasing size, and then screw it into the plunger. Unscrewing the nut should make a brearing puller like device and force the plunger out.
 
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