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Discussion Starter #1
HI,

Well basically i crashed my motorcycle by looping it over. I spent about two weeks getting all the parts needed to make it run(generator cover, gear set, etc..) But after i got it to run i noticed a wobble in ther front wheel, so i took my bike to a mechanic and he told me it was the wheel, so i had that straigthened. After it was straightened the front wheel had no woble when riding or when stoping. But it will not hold a straight line when i let my hands off the bars. And it leans automatically to the right.

My mechanic told me it is probably the triple clamp(s).

But this Rim and Frame straightener guy told me its the frame for sure.

if its the triple clamp it will cost about a $100.00 and if its the frame it will cost around $500.00. So how do i know?

please help,

Tony
 

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Considering you looped it my guess would be that it is the frontend out of whack. Try loosening the pinch bolts, forks, etc. and retighten everything and try it again. Look over the forks very carefully to make certain they aren't bent. It is sometimes very hard to tell with the bodywork on though. If you impacted the front hard enough to bend a wheel then it is likely the forks and/or the triple clamp are bent. Standard forks are not that tough to bend. They would likely bend before the frame did.

I doubt that the frame is bent. It would be tough to bend the frame just by looping the bike over unless it slammed into somehting other than just the ground. It makes sense that a frame guy told you the frame was bent... it is what he does to make money.
 

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If your somewhat handy, I would recommend you pull the fork tubes, and take them to a frame straightener so he can check them. If you were in arizona, I'd tell you exactly who to go to. When I crashed last year, My bike did the exact same thing. My inner fork tubes were bent. If you bike is upside down forks like mine (I forget now what you ride) then its easy to see if the frame is bent or not just by looking at the forks (when I say looking I mean with a bench clamp and a dialmeter for runout). On my forks the inner tubes were bent, but not the outer tubes. The outer tubes will bend long before the triple clamps, which will bend long before the frame. You can save yourself some money by working your way up. If your inner fork tubes are bent, but not the outers, then thats it. If the outers are bent, check the triples, if the triples are bent, check the frame, if the frame is bent, get it straightened. Good luck!!
 

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I don't know how much these people charge..but GMD Computrack advertise frame alignment checking/straightening. If you get Motorcyclist, their ad is on page 82 (in Sep issue) They have a site in LA (310 640 2825). I seem to remember Motorcyclist checking them out and giving them a good write up. It would take out all the guess work and mechanics "opinions".
 

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SloBrit said:
I don't know how much these people charge..but GMD Computrack advertise frame alignment checking/straightening. If you get Motorcyclist, their ad is on page 82 (in Sep issue) They have a site in LA (310 640 2825). I seem to remember Motorcyclist checking them out and giving them a good write up. It would take out all the guess work and mechanics "opinions".
The guy that runs the LA GMD is very knowledgable and friendly... nice family too if you care. ;)

Not sure now but in the past it was $80 for them to "take a look" using the scope device. Add about $400 if they have to put it in the straightening device. I believe that price is with you delivering the bike to them with extraneous crap removed. It wouldn't be a bad idea to let them look at the bike if you haven't ever dealt with bent forks or triple clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The place I was talking about will straighten for $250.00, they just charge another $250.00 to disassemble the bike. I could save $250.00, but I don't have any tools to take the whole bike apart, and probably would screw it up when putting back together. The place is Doctor John's in Anaheim. Very reputable.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
RCJOHN,

i just called and they said it was $150.00 to check out the bike. Do i have to say some magic words to get it for $80.00? These freaking bikes are a ton of money! This accident i had seems to be never ending!

This sucks!
 

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Amen Smitty...

Dude, why are you so convinced its the frame? Money is obviously an object to you, as it is to me. If you slammed the front down so hard that it bent the frame, there is going to be SIGNIFICANT visible damage to the forks. I've seen bikes that cartwheeled for 100 feet or more, tearing off the subframe, and forks, but the frame was still straight. If you can't plainly see that the forks are bent, then I would put money on your frame being fine.

Save yourself a few bucks, and start with the forks and triple clamps.

Dude, its a Kawasaki.. You know why Kawasaki's are so heavy? Cause their freakin' indestructable. Focus on your forks. All you need to drop your fork tubes are some allen wrenches, a socket set, and a steering head stand. Track those things down, and drop the fork tubes!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
the reason i'm kinda convinced its the frame is because i took it to a machanic that said he checked the forks and said they were fine. But the machanic is kind of a weird dude and i don't know if he really knows his $hit when it comes to racing bikes. He has about 50 old bikes in his lot, but nothing newer than 1990.

But whatever, i'm taking it to that guy GMD tomorrow. So will see. He checks the triple clamps and the forks and the frame, he checks every freaking thing possible. So its money hopefully well spent. If my bike leaves his shop straighter than it left the manufactorer, i will be happy as a pig in $hit.
 

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Well, if GMD works on it, then I gaurantee it'll leave straighter then it left the factory. There is usually a few degrees of variange in the headstock from the factory. When high level racers build a race bike, its standard practice to strip the bike down, and straighten the frame, eleminating that factory variance.

I hope the news is good! Good luck!
 

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Let us know how it goes at GMD. I've seen their ads and been curious about them, but I don't know anyone whos taken a bike to them.
 

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Similar Situation

I had a similar situation. Went down in a twisty (with the help of a cager) at around 70 best as we can judge from the distance traveled and other factors. I bent up the forks pretty bad, ordered a whole new set with triple clamps. Ordered other parts and began putting together.... put the lower cowling on and .... oopsie... it touched. Double checked it all and found a hairline crack on the inside of the frame and apparently the neck was 'tweaked' as well.

My frame is at Dr. Johns as I type! He is the MAN! Not only does he have the experience but he is one of the nicest people I have ever dealt with. He goes the extra mile.

If you put your bike down hard... get the frame checked out. It's not worth the risk. You can also order a new frame from Ron Ayers (for my bike it's about 830 with shipping). But 250 to have Dr. John go over the entire frame and put back to factory spec is a deal for me. I wouldn't trust anyone around here with my frame. You don't want to wrap your bike up to a high speed or hit a turn hard and find out your frame isn't straight and doesn't handle like you are use to.


Web site is The Good Dr. John
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well i dropped my bike off yesterday at GMD computrack and i don't regret a single second of it. The reason i decided on GMD and not Doctor John's was because Dr. John's doesn't check the triple clamps or any of the front end measurments. the way you take a bike to John's is without the front wheel assembly(no forks, wheel, clamps, gauges, etc..) and the way you take it to GMD's is just basically all the fairing off and rear seat $hit off and front gauges, and lights. I was really impressed by both people Jim(john's bro) at Doctor John's and Morris at GMD, but to be truly honest its like buying a helmet; do you want to buy a HJC or an Arai. Morris at GMD was extremely top caliber and i trusted every word he said. My girl friend and i showed up on saturday and ended up spending about three hours there. the first thing he did was start explaining the hole process of how everything works and what he does. He started with the computer that measure's the bikes frame, rake, etc........and then on to everything else. I don't feel like sitting hear and pumping this guy up all day. so i will just get to the meat and potato's of why i picked him. He checks the bike with front end on, and this will eliminate any front fork bends or triple clamps from getting bye, ultimately saving the rider money in the long run and no need for multiple mechanics's. He measures and compares all frame's spec's with a network of people who have these measuring computer's. company's like his and manufacturers's and other's all collect their data and share it to find the optimum frame setting for each individual bike. He also does a lot of custom suspension type stuff, but i really have no need for any of that yet. I know it might cost more at MGD, but to be frank, my life is worth quit a bit to me and i'm willing to pay an extra couple hundred to know that my bike is leaving that shop better than it left the manufacturer. And i have no doubt that it will. Also Morris is a walking ball of information; give this guy a call and you will end up on the phone for an hour with him....LOL

well the final product will be the true test..... so we shall see.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
got my bike back, and i'm a little confused. They said they did all the work and straightened everything out, but the damn thing feels really loose now. Before when i would take my hands off the bike it would practically travel straight untill i stoped. Now for some reason when i take my hands off the handle bars it cuts really hard in one direction, depending on which way i might have the slightest lean. I'm not sure if there is still something wrong, or if its supposed to be this way. I had one of the guys there(Dave) tighten up my front forks load because i weight 200pnds. Could this be what happened? Also there was only about 25 psi in the front wheel, maybe that was the problem. I'm not sure, but when i bought the bike i could hold a solid line without my hands for awhile. And now the damn thing is all over the road. Whats going on?
 

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If they repositioned your forks higher in the triple clamps, or raised your rear ride height, or bent your steering head in (decreasing rake angle), its gonna change your turn in rate. Your bike might be handling better now then before. Have someone else ride and see what they think. Based on GMD's reputation, I doubt they sent a bike out that wasn't right.
 

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GMD has done work for me many times and I have always been very pleased with the result. They probably set up the chassis to their "sweet" numbers which usually makes the bike a little more front end biased, quicker steering. You should install a steering damper and everything should be set.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
thanks for the comments everyone! They probably did dial it in, i was just expecting my old bike back. And this new one cuts hard. I will probably have someone ride it that knows there $hit. Thanks again.
 
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