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Resident Smart Ass!
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I have a '94 Thunder Chicken.....er Thunderbird. :D The roof has some bad oxidation going on. The paint shop said I could prep it for paint and save some money. I was just curious what grit sand paper and any other tips you all knew. Thanks!


Jester :D
 

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well if it has some good bit of rust start with the courset grit[24] you can. then go up with the grit. use a DA to sand it down.

if only a little rust. use 150 then go to 220 then shoot it with a metal etching
primer. that way when the shop does the work all they have to do is shoot some high build primer, wet sand it,then use sealer, then they can paint it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ohsoquik02 said:
well if it has some good bit of rust start with the courset grit[24] you can. then go up with the grit. use a DA to sand it down.

if only a little rust. use 150 then go to 220 then shoot it with a metal etching
primer. that way when the shop does the work all they have to do is shoot some high build primer, wet sand it,then use sealer, then they can paint it.
Actually what it is is the clear coar has come off in some spots and looks like poop!
 

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ok, then just DA it with 220 then so the new paint they shooton
has a tooth to stick to. or you just going for new clear coat.
if so then just wet sand down with 400 wet paper
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ohsoquik02 said:
ok, then just DA it with 220 then so the new paint they shooton
has a tooth to stick to. or you just going for new clear coat.
if so then just wet sand down with 400 wet paper
not to sound stupid..... what is a DA? :huh:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ohsoquik02 said:
DualAction sander

it goes circle then has a orbital
great for diging into bodywork but sucks for the final touches
in body work
Would a standard woodworking orbital work with different paper?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ohsoquik02 said:
any sander should work. like i used a finishing orbital sander
on my parts of my bike. just make sure you use automotive sandpaper
Thanks for the help! :thumbs2:
 

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If the shop wants you to prep it or they are telling you to do it to save money, they can't be doing that great a paint job. They have to put primer on, and you should ask them how much they "prep" the primer before shooting finish paint. No matter what they think you did to prep the surface, they will have to sand to their own satisfaction to make sure there are no major paint scratches from your sanding, and to get good paint adhesion they should be putting primer on first. Painting over existing paint, sanded or not, does not always result in good adhesion of the new paint, so a primer is used to enhance adhesion (usually after sanding to the metal).

If this is just a repaint of the roof, then sanding to the metal is not practical, especially on a '94 Ford of any type (sorry, but we are talking just an older "new" car, not a classic like a 55 Mercury Montery, etc.). But you do want to smooth the surface as much as you can, then let the body shop finish it the way they want it. But ASK them what they plan to do. Make sure you are satisfied it is what you expect. Hold them to telling you what they will do. Most places will want to do a fast job, as they make their profit doing insurance repairs (they do less work than what the bid calls for). :2cents:
 

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If I do the work, the best price I have gotten is 350 from Maaco. They did not give me a quote if they did it.
 

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I hope you like the job they do. The last person I met who had work done there ended up suing them in small claims court.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is the roof of the car:
 

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They can mask that panel off and sand it down, put on a filler primer that is compatible with the OEM paint and then finish it. They might have to blend the color with the adjoining panels by spraying a portion of them, and sanding/polishing it out.
 

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fuster said:
I hope you like the job they do. The last person I met who had work done there ended up suing them in small claims court.
+1

go to a REAL body shop. someone i know used MAACO and had HUGE issues with their work and ultimately sued too. though you do typically hear about bad experinces, real bodywork people won't work at MAACO. they'll either have their own shop or work for a private owner.

but then again, you are painting a Ford. yo u may as well just use spray paint. :twofinger
 

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monkey said:
+1

go to a REAL body shop. someone i know used MAACO and had HUGE issues with their work and ultimately sued too. though you do typically hear about bad experinces, real bodywork people won't work at MAACO. they'll either have their own shop or work for a private owner.

but then again, you are painting a Ford. yo u may as well just use spray paint. :twofinger
Krylon!:D Seriously, I agree with Monkey, but if money is tight, you have to go with what you can afford, and I think if you ask enough questions and get them to put what you want in writing (like the steps they will use to paint the car, what kind of paint, etc.,) you can protect yourself if there is a big problem.

But I think you might be surprised if you just call PEMCO or SAFECO or GEICO or FARMERS or another large insurance company, ask for claims and see if they can recommend some other shops that they use in your area, that those places are probably going to be close in cost and they will do a better job. :cool: PEMCO and GEICO do not stay on top by getting ripped off by body shops.
 
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