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I picked up a Toyota Highlander for a family car with the pending baby. The car didnt come with fog lamps i would like to install some. I saw a kit on ebay that should fit but i am not comfortable playing around with wiring etc in the vehicle. The kit includes the lamps wiring and switch that gets mounted on the dash. I would like the fogs to work without needing the headlights to be on (just the park lights).

If anyone is willing to help me out with this please let me know. Willing to through some $ or beer LOL
 

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<----------- NOT an Electrical Engineer:


I would splice them into the parking lights, and not have to have to use a switch. :2cents:

Also, from past experience, I can give you plenty of information on what NOT to do.
 

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If I lived close, I'd take you up on that offer. I've installed aftermarket and OEM fog lights on a few different vehicles, plus numerous off-road lights on my truck. If the kit you have is OEM, the car may be pre-wired. If not, it's still not that bad. Hope you find somebody to help. Once you watch them do it, you should be able to do it like a pro.
 

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Did your kit come with a heavy duty relay?
Normally, you just tap into what ever line you want to use with the relay and then the other wires on the relay go to the battery and the lights.

The relay acts like a switch, allowing the main power to go to the lights.

You would then mount the fog light switch up on the dash or as Snake mentioned, there might already be a place already located there for your use.

In this scenario, the parking lights would have to be on and then you can turn the fog lights on or off as you would need them or you could just leave them always on.

Why would you want the fogs to be on without the headlights on? Driving around with only fog lights on (not being off road and not having an ORV sticker) is illegal, I think.
 

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You need a relay, after that, everything is pretty simple.
A relay is basically a switch, if power is given to the input side, it closes the contacts and allows power to flow thru its output side. Without a relay, you are asking whatevet switch you use to push all the power that your lights use, and it will most likely melt, or catch fire, or something equally bad.
So, once you got your handy normally open relay, your wiring will work like so.
One wire running from the battery, to one output terminal of the relay. Another wire running from the other output terminal of the relay to your lights. And a wire running from the other side of your fog lights, to ground (or the other side of the battery if you want to be fancy about it). So, once the relay contacts are closed (more to that in a minute) power will flow from your battery, thru the relay, to the lights, and back to ground.
Now to the input side. Run one wire from your igntion (so that the lights will automatically go off when you take the key out, otherwise you might drain your battery) to a switch that you will mount wherever. Run another wire from the switch, to the input side of the relay. Finally run a wire from the other input wire on the relay to gound. Thus, when the key is turned, power will flow to the ignition wire and to the switch. Once the switch is closed, power will flow thru it and into your relay. The relay will close, and allow power to flow from the battery (and charging system) to the lights. Viola. You're done.

The biggest pain is going to be running all those wires. Make sure to use good connectors when splicing all those wires. Oh and plenty of shrink wrap. You guys got nasty corrosive salt on those roads.
 

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If you skip a sw install and have them on with the parking lights, you skip running wires to the dash, and just jumper a hot off the park sw circuit, under the hood.
DO use a relay. Shrink wrap in not necessary.
10-20 job. Simple as pie.

I've wired:
Lights, on-board air compressors, stereos, CD changers, amps, remote starts, alarm systems, winches, remote winch controls, in-dash acessories panels, accessories fuse panels, axle locker systems, any digital or analog gages you could ever dream of, battery buddies, battery disconnects and selector switches, alternator mods for welding, electric fan assys, aftermarket ignition systems, launch/roll controls, NOS systems, a dual alternator system in a boat, trim tab controls in a boat, entire Dunebuggy chassis harness, entire MPI engine wire harness with ecm controls/relays and sensors. AKA...mpi engine swaps to non-native vehicles....
much more. toomaytoremember.....


Wait......oh.........and the heated grips and the taillight integrator on my bike.
 
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