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Discussion Starter #1
I think my R1 is burning too much oil!

It is a 1999 and has 7,600 mi. I have so far changed the oil every 2,00 mi.

Today the low oil level light came on. I had to add 1/2 quart to bring it back to the full level.

Is it normal for a bike to burn 1/2 quart per 2,000 mi?
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Aril, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by rr31:

Is it normal for a bike to burn 1/2 quart per 2,000 mi?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Heck No! Its under warranty still right?


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Kyle J.-
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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, it is still under warranty, in fact, I got the 4 year factory extended warranty when I got the bike so I should be covered for a while.

I think that I will just keep an eye on the oil consumption over the next few thousand miles.

I have never had a bike that lost oil. Have you?

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No, No, NO!! Don't wait another thousands miles to see if it still leaks or burns oil. If it is .5 Quarts low, and you have warranty, get it fixed. Who knows if it is leaking oil on your rear tire..not good, or further engine damage might be happening. I had an 89 katana that didn't even use that much oil.

Trevor

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Did you check the plugs for blow-by? Compression check would be in order, I think.

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--2000 VTR1000F Super Hawk
 

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A half quart in 2K miles doesn't seem like much to me. Is it possible that some oil is finding its way into the airbox during long wheelies?

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'98 Superhawk
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Aril, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Tristan:
A half quart in 2K miles doesn't seem like much to me.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Are you kidding? My RR has'nt used an ounce in over 5000 miles. I would be concerned.

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Kyle J.-
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[This message has been edited by riverrunner_2000 (edited June 19, 2000).]
 

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My R6 did that last year... It really depends
on 3 things:

1.) How well did you break it in?
2.) Is it ACTUALLY broken in - by this I mean
some bikes depending on how they are ridden
take much longer than others to seat...
Usually though they are seated well before
the 1000 mile mark.
3.) Factory tolerances.... They vary, some
bikes have more clearance and they just
burn oil period. If a bike burns oil it's
not the end of the world... Make sure you
keep an eye on the level.. It will build
up extra carbon and other crap in the engine
but the can be removed by using a spay bottle
of watter and pumping it in the carbs while
throttling the motor..

I would take it to the dealer to see if they
might do something about it. I'm not sure
they will honor anything in this circumstance
though.. Let me know if you do I would like
to hear what happens..

Bottom line... If you broke it in correctly
.. some bikes burn oil bro... some don't.

My R6 did, my R1 doesn't. I was good with
both of them during break in but that's just
the way it goes...

Oh yeah one more thing... If you are running
synthetics... Try regular oil for 1000 miles.
Sometimes synthetics are so frictionless that
they actually promote blow-by (which is what
you probably have) because nothing's fully
seated....

Good luck bro!

Chris


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Discussion Starter #12
Hey - guess what? I checked the search function on the R1 forum. I found greater than 50 posts that indicate that the R1 burns about 1/2 quart per 1,500 - 2,000 mi. I agree that this sounds like a lot - but it looks like this is normal for the R1.

What should I do? I don't want to have major unecessary engine work.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Aril, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by rr31:
Hey - guess what? I checked the search function on the R1 forum. I found greater than 50 posts that indicate that the R1 burns about 1/2 quart per 1,500 - 2,000 mi. I agree that this sounds like a lot - but it looks like this is normal for the R1.

What should I do? I don't want to have major unecessary engine work.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I don't think you need to do a damn thing. Some bikes burn oil, some don't. Think about how many petroleum-based products are consumed on every ride: gas,tires,asphalt...
Adding a bit of oil between changes is really no big deal as long as the performance is not affected.



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'98 Superhawk
 

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Don't do anything other then mantain the oil
level bro. It's normal then, I must be a
little lucky to be honest. But like I said
my R6 burnt oil like a mad dog. You can
overfill the R1 slightly without losing
any performance... slightly now, like by a
1/4 of a quart and you should be OK. At
worst you will have a little oil in the
air box.

Look at it this way.... You've got roughly
4 rings being pressed at around 125 plus
psi, behind those rings is a turbulent storm
of entrapped oil trying to go everywhere.
It's amazing that we don't burn 4 quarts a
frikkin day...

I know I sound like DeltaV but it's true and
it's normal. I have rebuilt motors perfectly
(I know I did them myself and took my time
and was VERY careful) and after they break in
the burn a little oil. What can you expect
at 11,000 rpms....

If you asked me personally what to do bro..
I'd side with conviction... ride it. :D

(Hey Tristan - Great minds bro, great minds!)

Chris


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[This message has been edited by chris_y2k_r1 (edited June 19, 2000).]
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah, I think you guys are right! I am just going to "ride it like I stole it". If the amount of oil consumption increases, then I will have it looked at.

Rick
 

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I agree that the bike can burn a little oil without it being a problem, but dont you think a compression check would be a good idea just to be sure?

Im just asking, Im no expert :)

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Kyle J.-
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Actually I am sure compression will most
likley check out fine... If you wanted to
find out where the oil is going it would be
a leak down test that you want to do. This
is a means of pressurizing the cyclinders
to find out where the blow-by is.

But honestly, ok let's say you find out where
it's leaking... IMO it doesn't make a
difference whether it's coming from the
valve guides or the rings... You're not going
to rebuild the motor just for that...It's
not hurting anything...

But lets further the argument... Let's say
you do a compression test and one cylinder
comes back low... As long as your satisfied
with the power, the compression test is
meaningless in my eyes.

Just my 2cents bro. I don't worry until I
hear knocking or grinding... Tapping isn't
a concern too much because a loose valve is
better than a tight one...Probably the only
case where loose is better than tight ;)


Chris

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I have a BMW boxer, an engine which is somewhat known for using oil, and the best advice I saw on a BMW post was to break it in per the book for about 1,000 mi., and then run it for a couple of tankfuls without going into top gear. In other words, crank up the revs for a few hundred miles to get the rings seated well. Most of the burning is believed to be blowby past the rings because the cylinder walls are so hard these days with nikasil or composite coatings, that it takes some serious use to set the rings.

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