Another defective R1 ?

My R6 did that last year... It really depends
on 3 things:

1.) How well did you break it in?
2.) Is it ACTUALLY broken in - by this I mean
some bikes depending on how they are ridden
take much longer than others to seat...
Usually though they are seated well before
the 1000 mile mark.
3.) Factory tolerances.... They vary, some
bikes have more clearance and they just
burn oil period. If a bike burns oil it's
not the end of the world... Make sure you
keep an eye on the level.. It will build
up extra carbon and other crap in the engine
but the can be removed by using a spay bottle
of watter and pumping it in the carbs while
throttling the motor..

I would take it to the dealer to see if they
might do something about it. I'm not sure
they will honor anything in this circumstance
though.. Let me know if you do I would like
to hear what happens..

Bottom line... If you broke it in correctly
.. some bikes burn oil bro... some don't.

My R6 did, my R1 doesn't. I was good with
both of them during break in but that's just
the way it goes...

Oh yeah one more thing... If you are running
synthetics... Try regular oil for 1000 miles.
Sometimes synthetics are so frictionless that
they actually promote blow-by (which is what
you probably have) because nothing's fully
seated....

Good luck bro!

Chris


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Don't do anything other then mantain the oil
level bro. It's normal then, I must be a
little lucky to be honest. But like I said
my R6 burnt oil like a mad dog. You can
overfill the R1 slightly without losing
any performance... slightly now, like by a
1/4 of a quart and you should be OK. At
worst you will have a little oil in the
air box.

Look at it this way.... You've got roughly
4 rings being pressed at around 125 plus
psi, behind those rings is a turbulent storm
of entrapped oil trying to go everywhere.
It's amazing that we don't burn 4 quarts a
frikkin day...

I know I sound like DeltaV but it's true and
it's normal. I have rebuilt motors perfectly
(I know I did them myself and took my time
and was VERY careful) and after they break in
the burn a little oil. What can you expect
at 11,000 rpms....

If you asked me personally what to do bro..
I'd side with conviction... ride it.

(Hey Tristan - Great minds bro, great minds!)

Chris


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[This message has been edited by chris_y2k_r1 (edited June 19, 2000).]

Actually I am sure compression will most
likley check out fine... If you wanted to
find out where the oil is going it would be
a leak down test that you want to do. This
is a means of pressurizing the cyclinders
to find out where the blow-by is.

But honestly, ok let's say you find out where
it's leaking... IMO it doesn't make a
difference whether it's coming from the
valve guides or the rings... You're not going
to rebuild the motor just for that...It's
not hurting anything...

But lets further the argument... Let's say
you do a compression test and one cylinder
comes back low... As long as your satisfied
with the power, the compression test is
meaningless in my eyes.

Just my 2cents bro. I don't worry until I
hear knocking or grinding... Tapping isn't
a concern too much because a loose valve is
better than a tight one...Probably the only
case where loose is better than tight


Chris

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