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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-08-2007 05:59 AM
DaveL BigNinja,
You haven't done much to help produce more horsepower. The Flo-Commander and K&N air filter are probably the most important items. The pipe & timing advancer are probably good for 1 or 2 hp, at most. All together you're looking at about 140 HP. Not bad, all things considered.
06-07-2007 10:44 PM
BigNinja So Cookietree?

I've got an '01 ZX11 with the following:
K&N Airfilter in the stock airbox;
FactoryPro Jetkit, Stage 1- I'm pretty sure;
4 degree Ignition Advancer (FactoryPro);
Stainless/Carbon Full Muzzy System;
Main Circuit Flo-Commander, about 3/8 up from fully in (just recently installed).

My question is, what honestly do you suppose my RWHP is? And, I'd love to have 170RWHP also. With what I've already got, any tuning and/or tweaking you'd recommend?
06-04-2007 04:44 PM
Originally posted by DaveL
I've always used 12 to 15 % correction for crank to rear wheel hoprsepower. Dyno's can actually test for the exact power drove train losses. It's called a negative power pull.
Cool, thanks.

06-04-2007 03:27 PM
DaveL vfrster,
It isn't that the numbers are made up; it's just that they're probably exaggerated a bit. For example, in industry the standard is to throw out the high and the low, and average the rest. With a motorcycle dyno, you throw out everything but the highest reading and then tweak it a little. This may sound funny, but it's exactly what goes on. In fact it's actually much worse than that; many Dyno's are modified to read high. Operators find that if their Dyno's are accurate their customers complain, cry crocodile tears and sometimes want their money back for the header you just installed. If the Dyno reads high, nothing but praise, and another happy customer. Manufacturers of headers and other performance items also tend to record only the most extreme claims. It's all about sales.

I've always used 12 to 15 % correction for crank to rear wheel hoprsepower. Dyno's can actually test for the exact power drive train losses. It's called a negative power pull.
06-03-2007 03:57 PM
Originally posted by DaveL
...Remember that the king ZX-11 had between 125 and 130 for comparison...
Dave, what's a typical loss from bhp to rwhp on a bike? IIRC, it's about 20% in a cage.

My ZZR-1100 (ZX-11) was rated at 147 bhp. If, as you say, they had between 125 and 130 rwhp, that would suggest the loss would be somewhere in the order of 11 - 15%.

Sound about right???

06-02-2007 04:43 PM
vfrster The numbers are not made up. It's from a dyno run done on the bike.

You have it posted in your sig that your bike has 170 hp but you just said they only have 130.

The bike has aftermarket parts and the guy said even with that I'd only be at 120. That was my point.
06-02-2007 12:41 PM
DaveL I think the other guy was probably a bit closer to the truth. I've tested dozens of ZX-9s on my dyno and 115 to a high of around 125 would be more typical. Remember that the king ZX-11 had between 125 and 130 for comparison. I've written many times on how everyone ratchets up the HP numbers a bit. The numbers are downright silly much of the time. For example, I tested a GSX-R1000 the other day and got 144 HP and before I got it off the Dyno the customer was telling hid buddies that it got 150 HP. He just didn't like the sound of 144 HP and corrected the situation.
03-29-2007 03:52 AM
94 ZX-9 dyno

I finally got my 94 ZX-9 dyno'd after owning it 6 yrs and having my jet kit dyno tuned.

Factory Pro Titanium jet kit
6 degree ignition advancer
V&H SS2R Full System
K&N Air Filter

141 HP
71 FP torque
both at rear wheel. The guy said I have over 150 at the crank.
This was a free air measurement. No forced air into RAM air ports. I'm wondering what the increase would be with forced air to simulate driving conditions?

I had a guy a few years ago tell me that my bike had 110 tops at rear wheel stock and would be lucky to get 120 with kit. I tried to explain to him that this bike had 125 at the rear wheel stock.

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