First check the valve clearances. It can drive you crazy trying to adjust pilot screws if your valves have insufficient clearance.
In re the pilot screws:
It can be that they're too lean, too. Taking a second or so to come back down to idle after a blip of the throttle is a sign of leanness, usually. Does the bike 'pop' under deceleration with the throttle closed and in gear? Does the bike keep a steady speed at 3-4000 RPM in second? If it surges it's lean.
Probably, though, if the bike is stock, it's slightly rich, like you note. Lean the screws 1/2 turn at a time until it just 'pops' on closed-throttle deceleration. Bring it back 1/4 turn to the rich, and you should be good to go.
Other things that will help: changing the oil, putting in a new set of (correctly gapped) plugs and a new battery can help.
Several local shops will help you tune your pilot screws with a sniffer for somewhere around $20. You'll pass emissions, then. Try Steve's Cycles on Main and Gilbert (thereabouts, anyway) in Mesa, if you live close to there.
For years my CBR would only pass at the elevated RPM. When I put my V&H and K&N on the bike, I changed my pilot jets to #38s (over the stock #35s), and when I did the idle-drop procedure (fourth paragraph above), it passed at 250 PPM HC.
Last edited by cdma2000; 10-17-2003 at 05:17 PM.