Break it in ? - Sportbike Forum: Sportbike Motorcycle Forums
Poll: How would you break in a new sport bike?
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How would you break in a new sport bike?

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-04-2002, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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Break it in ?


I like to try and stay as close to what the manual says, but I also beleive in varring the rmps in order to get a good seat for break in.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-08-2002, 03:08 AM
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Just wondering ......why does this subject always come up ?
Does anyone out there break in there car when they buy it ???
All I know is I have been a truck mechanic for 13 years now in fact i am in the process of building one now....the first thing this guy is going to do when he gets the truck back is load it up and drive it..most likely hard too....I have never had a problem after any rebuilds .
I just bought my 2002 zx12 first thing i did was tear off that break in sticker.....this is my third brand new bike none of which have i had any problems with.
Just saying use common sense........common sense dictates that you don't take a brand new bike out and start redline shifting it.......but i do not know a soul out there that can possibly follow the guidelines of break in......4000 rpms shifts ????? Yugos would be passing you !!!!!!! just my opinion which doesnt add up to much.........
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-14-2002, 04:34 PM
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I break my bikes in this Way

The first few hundred miles of a new engineís life have a major impact on how strongly that engine will perform, how much oil it will consume and how long it will last..... We ask four top engine builders what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life..........piston ring and cylinder seating is critical to get a proper seal for power output and oil consumption..... If the wrong type of oil is used initially or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loadings to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but donít lug or overheat the engine either. Use high quality low viscosity oil (10W30 weight eg.) no synthetics, too slippery, if used during initial break-in the rings are sure to glaze. Initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant up to temperature only, with little or no load, then shut off and allow to cool right down. After thorough cool down (ambient temp), start up and ride under light loads at relatively low rpm 3000-5000 rpm, keep out of top gear, lugging is more detrimental than high rpm. Key advice, constantly vary load on engine, a constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down. The next run should be slightly higher rpm, 5000-7000 and under light to medium loads using short bursts of acceleration to seat the rings in early. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. Allow to cool right down. The third run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, 8000-9000 rpm max, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and avoiding top gear. Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Al Ludington from Vance and Hines feels most of the metal particles will break away within first 50 -75 miles, get them out soon after. To ensure the rings seat well, use same high quality oil and donít be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed. A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engines redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles itís a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles retorquing the head is suggested. Switch to synthetic oil but not before 1500 miles. Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking in the engine too easily and ending up with an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup. Engine load is more detrimental than rpm, so avoid lugging the engine but rev it freely especially in the lower gears. Muzzy summed up his break-in concerns most concisely: Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly.

As previously posted another good break in procedure, Very similar -

Chandler, Az.
01CBR929RR R/B
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-17-2002, 08:18 PM
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so if a cop pulls me over I can say "just breaking it in officer"

Broomstick-Motorcycle-Jousting State Champ '96
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2002, 08:37 AM
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I read about that thermal cycling thing. I didnt know if it would help or not but it didnt seem like it would hurt so five times in a row I started the engine, let it idle to hot then turned it off and let it cool for a few hours. I did this right after riding the bike home. Dont they break in the engine at the factory or at least run it for awhile? If they did it would make thermal cycling seem unneccesary. After the cycling I just varied the RPM and kept below 5K rpm for the break in, changed the oil and that was it.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-05-2003, 03:16 PM
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I'm glad this poll came up. I just purchased my new 03 R1 last
week. This is the second bike I have broken in. I fully agree
with Az929RR with what he stated. I'm a believer in bringing it
up to temp then going with the complete cool downs. This
should be done at least three times. And very the rpm's with
no steady highway crusing. I hear of people buying bikes out
of state then riding them home off the showroom floor. When
they get home with it they say it was broke in good. IMO you
should never stay at a constant rpm too long for the first
several hundred miles. I babied my bike the first trip out last
weekend then on the second trip I increased the rpm's up and
down the band while riding on various types of roads. Both the
first and second rides were fairly short in duration. I have not
done the third ride as of yet. I'll do it this weekend. I guess it's
all personal prefrence on how you want to do it. Some people
light the tires up leaving the dealers lot. You have to understand
all that metal in the engine is new and is cutting and polishing
as you drive for the first few hundred miles.

Safety first!!! Then smoke his Ass!!!
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2003, 05:47 PM
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I agree with Az929RR, thats pretty close what i did to my last bike. A little harder, but close.

A convicted killer out on a legal technicality.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-28-2003, 03:55 PM
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I work at a shop with a dyno. I threw the key to a tech, had them strap it on and let the dyno do the boring work. 50miles of loading, unloading, heat cycles and voila, broken in bike. The manufacturers don't void the warranty and I can ride like I normally do from day one. I hate part throttle, even on the bus,

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2003, 03:39 PM
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I just had a motor enlarged (custom made pistons and cylinder liners) and had head port work done by a reputable race shop and they advised I did not need to do anything other than make sure I stayed away from redline rpm for about 500 miles, make sure it does not overheat (this one is an air cooled motor), and do not put synthetic oil in it for the first oil.

But on my new bikes I vary the RPM and follow the other instructions from the manufacturer.


"...If you can meet with triumph and disaster, and treat those two imposters the'll be a Man, my Son!"

- Rudyard Kipling
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-24-2006, 11:12 AM
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Ride em like I stole em,,,

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