HELP! FZR 1000 noise good bad or ugly? - Sportbike Forum: Sportbike Motorcycle Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 23
Post HELP! FZR 1000 noise good bad or ugly?

HI EVERYONE! New to this site, have done some searching and I love it. I recently purchased an '87 FZR 1000 with 20k miles, not running but all else in very good shape for $200. Once home I verified it had oil(told it was recently changed-pretty dark), verified there was no spark issue, drained tank, replaced all fuel lines (they were vacuum hose and crimped in a spot or two), checked coolant, changed battery and gave a push of the button. A few spins later, she comes ALIVE! Upon starting I hear a sharp tapping noise. No sooner did I reach to shut it down, the noise fadded. A few conservative twists of the throttle and back to idle the noise returned but not as sharp. I've been a certified or certifiable mechanic (auto) for many years and noise resembles that of hydraulic lifters before they pump up. Being an OHC are there hydraulic tappetts in the head? Oh, after warming completly up the noise is gone. Let it sit for a few, restart, noise is there, not as sharp and then gone before you can bend and get an idea of where it is coming from. IDEAS? Also, cyl 1 or 2 carb has a slight stream of fuel coming out of a tube. Is that tube an overflow for the bowl meaning the float is stuck on the bottom of the bowl? Or something else meaning the needle is stuck closed? Thanks for any assistance!!!
Dilligas is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 11:04 PM
Super Moderator
 
DanQ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Jacksonville, NC 28540
Posts: 704
The Yamaha motor can sometimes develop problems with the cam chain tensioner that will cause a tick that goes away with RPM and oil pressure. You can alleviate that with a manual tensioner.

Not sure on your 1 and 2 concerns. Are you on the kickstand or stood straight up?

Good find on the bike!

Dan
1991 FZR 1000 - built 1040 with race cams, Akrapovic full exhaust, and mild suspension work
2004 YZF R1 - Graves full exhaust, velocity stacks, BMC race filter, and Power Commander. Rear Ohlins. Forks rblt with Race Tech springs and Gold Valves.
2005 20th Anniversary V-Max (0098/2000) - T boost,
2005 YZF R6 track bike - Graves full exhaust, Race Tech suspension
DanQ is offline  
post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-24-2007, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 23
Post

Thanks for the info on the tensioner.

On my carb issue: I'm actually on the kickstand. Looking at the carbs from the rear of the bike, carb #1 has a port on the upper left hand corner and # 4 carb on the upper right corner. Each have a tube running to a tee and from the tee a tube running over the right side of gearcase. That help any???

Just tried and stream continues with bike in up right position as well.
Dilligas is offline  
 
post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-25-2007, 06:04 PM
Super Moderator
 
DanQ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Jacksonville, NC 28540
Posts: 704
Quote:
Originally posted by Dilligas
Thanks for the info on the tensioner.

On my carb issue: I'm actually on the kickstand. Looking at the carbs from the rear of the bike, carb #1 has a port on the upper left hand corner and # 4 carb on the upper right corner. Each have a tube running to a tee and from the tee a tube running over the right side of gearcase. That help any???

Just tried and stream continues with bike in up right position as well.
Can you show me any pics? I'm not sure which tees you are talking about. If your airbox has been removed, there may be a couple of tees that are disconnected, and should not flow anything unless you are seriously overflowing the bowls.

I need to see this to help. Sorry... I wish I had a faster answer.

But Merry Christmas!

Dan
1991 FZR 1000 - built 1040 with race cams, Akrapovic full exhaust, and mild suspension work
2004 YZF R1 - Graves full exhaust, velocity stacks, BMC race filter, and Power Commander. Rear Ohlins. Forks rblt with Race Tech springs and Gold Valves.
2005 20th Anniversary V-Max (0098/2000) - T boost,
2005 YZF R6 track bike - Graves full exhaust, Race Tech suspension
DanQ is offline  
post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 01:40 PM
Registered User
 
97yzfinwyo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: glenrock, wy 82637
Posts: 526
Send a message via AIM to 97yzfinwyo Send a message via Yahoo to 97yzfinwyo
idle

does it do it at idle only? not sure if your 1000 has it or not but the exup valve is famous for making a rattling noise at idle and goes away with a little throttle. you can shim it or try other fixes but always seems to come back
97yzfinwyo is offline  
post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 03:06 PM
Super Moderator
 
DanQ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Jacksonville, NC 28540
Posts: 704
Re: idle

Quote:
Originally posted by 97yzfinwyo
does it do it at idle only? not sure if your 1000 has it or not but the exup valve is famous for making a rattling noise at idle and goes away with a little throttle. you can shim it or try other fixes but always seems to come back
No EXUP until 1989.

There is some tick that is relatively normal on these Yamahas, but I'm concerned that he may have a little bit of a loose tensioner.

Good call on the EXUP valve rattle though! I'd forgotten about that since it's been so long since I've had one. Had to re-bush mine twice because of that damn rattle!

Dan
1991 FZR 1000 - built 1040 with race cams, Akrapovic full exhaust, and mild suspension work
2004 YZF R1 - Graves full exhaust, velocity stacks, BMC race filter, and Power Commander. Rear Ohlins. Forks rblt with Race Tech springs and Gold Valves.
2005 20th Anniversary V-Max (0098/2000) - T boost,
2005 YZF R6 track bike - Graves full exhaust, Race Tech suspension
DanQ is offline  
post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 23
97yzfinwyo, yes the noise is only at idle. Let it idle long enough and it will go away. I noticed yesterday,(when I was supposed to be at my in-laws house 30mins. ago ) let it get to operating temp, shut her down, and up to as much as 40minutes later when you restart, the noise is maybe two taps and gone. As soon as my local shop opens from the holidays, i'm going to change the oil and start a process of elimination. Is there a safe (electronics friendly) way to "cancel" a cylinder on a motorcycle if I was to determine the noise was cylinder related? Thanks.
Dilligas is offline  
post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally posted by DanQ
Can you show me any pics? I'm not sure which tees you are talking about. If your airbox has been removed, there may be a couple of tees that are disconnected, and should not flow anything unless you are seriously overflowing the bowls.

I need to see this to help. Sorry... I wish I had a faster answer.

But Merry Christmas!
DanQ, I hope you had a merry christmas yourself. I would love to send you a pic but MY dig. camera is on it's way to Disney World! I believe that you are right on as far as the overflowing bowls. Yes the stock air box was gone and 4 K&N pods are in it's place.

I located my tensioner on the intake side of the motor. I'm not sure what you mean by a manual tensioner. Mine doesn't seem to be hyd. unless it passes through an oil passage in the motor. Hope I'm not being thick headed!
Dilligas is offline  
post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 09:07 PM
Super Moderator
 
DanQ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Jacksonville, NC 28540
Posts: 704
Quote:
Originally posted by Dilligas
DanQ, I hope you had a merry christmas yourself. I would love to send you a pic but MY dig. camera is on it's way to Disney World! I believe that you are right on as far as the overflowing bowls. Yes the stock air box was gone and 4 K&N pods are in it's place.

I located my tensioner on the intake side of the motor. I'm not sure what you mean by a manual tensioner. Mine doesn't seem to be hyd. unless it passes through an oil passage in the motor. Hope I'm not being thick headed!
Oh yeah. Good Christmas and we are past December 21st

If you are running individual filters you probably are overflowing some from the bowls. Check the float level as well as the fuel pumps ability to turn off when the bowls are full.

Most of the mechanical adjustable cam chain tensioners have a bolt extruding the tensioner, with a lock nut on the bolt. And most are anodized. The stock is usually a bolt torqued all the way down on a washer. And yes, the hydraulics are internal. On that age machine I'd recommend a properly installed manual tensioner. APE makes a good one one.

Dan
1991 FZR 1000 - built 1040 with race cams, Akrapovic full exhaust, and mild suspension work
2004 YZF R1 - Graves full exhaust, velocity stacks, BMC race filter, and Power Commander. Rear Ohlins. Forks rblt with Race Tech springs and Gold Valves.
2005 20th Anniversary V-Max (0098/2000) - T boost,
2005 YZF R6 track bike - Graves full exhaust, Race Tech suspension
DanQ is offline  
post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-27-2007, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally posted by DanQ
Oh yeah. Good Christmas and we are past December 21st

If you are running individual filters you probably are overflowing some from the bowls. Check the float level as well as the fuel pumps ability to turn off when the bowls are full.

Most of the mechanical adjustable cam chain tensioners have a bolt extruding the tensioner, with a lock nut on the bolt. And most are anodized. The stock is usually a bolt torqued all the way down on a washer. And yes, the hydraulics are internal. On that age machine I'd recommend a properly installed manual tensioner. APE makes a good one one.

thank you thank you THANK YOU! I fully understand the tensioner now.

My fuel pump does shut off, which leads me to believe I have an inlet problem or a float problem as you have stated. I say possible inlet because the fitting where fuel is coming out is actually between 1&2 carb. It seems to be performing its duties if someone was to run into a float/inlet clogged problem as I have.

Heavy work schedule for the next week in a half. Hope to get some quality time with bike. Will keep you posted! Thanks again.
Dilligas is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Sportbike Forum: Sportbike Motorcycle Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome