Using Diesel oil in your bike - Page 2 - Sportbike Forum: Sportbike Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 03:36 AM
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keeney, I know I've read of someone who had experienced clutch slip with auto oil. It might have been on gixxer.com since it was very long ago and that was where I mainly did my early reading (other than here, of course). That is the only first-hand experience I'd read about, however, and its been a long while.

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post #12 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 03:49 AM
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vash if you are willing to use your bike to do the tests you might want to contact the amsoil rep and see if they would help with contrubuting for the dyno tests and even contrubuting the different oil, it would be in there best interest.

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post #13 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 04:07 AM
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it would be in their best interest only if the clutch does slip (incidentally, I've had a clutch slip when I used an oil additive once), otherwise it just goes to prove that there is no good reason to pay $14/quart, or whatever they are charging now. Besides if I'm diong PR for a company, I want something in return. They got enough money to torture test bikes if they wanted to, apparently using internet bots is a more effective ways of advertising.




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post #14 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanwisch View Post
keeney, I know I've read of someone who had experienced clutch slip with auto oil. It might have been on gixxer.com since it was very long ago and that was where I mainly did my early reading (other than here, of course). That is the only first-hand experience I'd read about, however, and its been a long while.
Probably already a bad clutch from wheelies on gixxer.com. There's still the issue that energy conserving oils are not the correct weight for bikes, so I wonder if it was just auto oil or energy conserving also. I realized yesterday during this discussion that all the energy conserving oils are in the 5w20 - 10w30 range, while all the motorcycle oils sold by the big 4 are in the 10w40 - 20w50 range, so if someone had a problem, aren't they using the wrong oil?

Quote:
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it would be in their best interest only if the clutch does slip (incidentally, I've had a clutch slip when I used an oil additive once), otherwise it just goes to prove that there is no good reason to pay $14/quart, or whatever they are charging now. Besides if I'm diong PR for a company, I want something in return. They got enough money to torture test bikes if they wanted to, apparently using internet bots is a more effective ways of advertising.
What was the additive? My guess is that you'll never hear from any oil company. Hype is cheaper than proof.

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post #15 of 44 (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 05:15 AM
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Don't really remember, it was in my early days. It was one of those miracle save your engine additives.

However I'm almost certain I've seen energy conserving 10-40 oils




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post #16 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-05-2008, 01:10 AM
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Diesel oil

I guess ijust have to stock up on my shell rotella $8.88 a gallon at wally world the have a synthetic for about $19 Bucks a gallon but my old katanas and ninjas like the Regular Dino rotella .

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post #17 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-05-2008, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
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40 weight oils will not pass the test for the energy conserving certification because of viscosity drag. Friction modifiers are used in most oils. Moly is one of the most common and is used in high concentrations in Honda's motorcycle oil. Friction modifiers designed properly for specific applications can be used very successfully with wet clutches. The friction modifiers used in diesel oils apparently work fine as evidenced by many on this site. The point I was making about the new diesel oils for 2007 and beyond is this new CJ-4 diesel oil has a totally new additive package so the jury is still out on how it will affect wet clutches. Also if you get Shell Rotella T at a good price do it soon as most oil companies are now charging an extra energy sur charge plus a general price increase to customers like Wally world and it will surely be passed on to the consumer.

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post #18 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-18-2008, 09:29 AM
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Be wary of using some automotive oils as there are a few that contain Moly. IIRC, there are warnings in the Honda owner's manuals about using engine oils with Moly as it can cause the wet clutch to wear prematurely. Trust me, it has happened plenty of times, not just on Gixxer,com, but with many many people with several different brands of M/C. Sometimes the best oil really is an OEM motorcycle oil, synthetic or dyno. IMO, price be damned.

Do your oil research properly, and you'll come out ahead.

I've done well with Royal Purple Max-cycle and a K & N filter on my ZRX.

Here is the best INDEPENDENT oil analysis research done outside of a oil manufacturer/retailer grasp. It's for aircooled Porsche and Volkswagen engines, but many of the areas covered apply to motorcycles as well. Charles of L.N. Engineering can even do an oil analysis for your personal use motorcycle/car.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

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post #19 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-22-2008, 04:09 PM
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To each his own, for the little extra value priced motorcycle oil costs I'd rather buy it than save a few bucks and buy diesel oil--the wet clutch is one reason I rather get bike oil another is RPM and cooling differences between a bike engine and diesel engine (~3k rpm redline vs 10k+ redline).
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post #20 of 44 (permalink) Old 04-23-2008, 04:01 AM
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Energy conserving oils wont wear out your clutch. They could cause it to slip, but it can be remedied by changing your oil (and waiting abit).
Another thing to keep in mind is that some oils will cause your tranny to shift rough. I dont know what causes it, but I've seen it happen several times, and switching oil brands always helped




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