F3 Drags Pegs on Track - Sportbike Forum: Sportbike Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2002, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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F3 Drags Pegs on Track

I have done 3 track days now and have figured out one thing about my bike...the foot pegs are in the wrong place. I can't quite put my finger on it, but they are placed in such a way that the end of the pegs scrape the ground before I can even get my knee down. My arse is completely off the seat and some of the instructors that follow me tell me that my body positioning is correct...my bike just won't lean all the way over because of the pegs.
Anybody else have this same problem? Know any ways to overcome it? Thanks for your input!!!!

Texas A&M University '02
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2002, 08:27 AM
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Rearsets should take care of that problem. The pegs are positioned higher and further back than the stock configuration.

If the $200 - $300 for rearsets is not an option, you can try aftermarket pegs only, which are usually shaped differently for greater ground clearance. Those will run you $30 - $100, roughly.

Either of these can be found online at Lockhart Phillips' site or other online vendors.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2002, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input!!

I looked at Lockhart Phillips and they have rearset adapters for $115. They offer them in two different ways: 1" up and back and 1.5" up and back. What is the difference and what should I get?

How exactly does this rearset thing work? Is this all I need to do it, just order this kit off LP and thats it?! Don't need to get anything else?

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2002, 10:18 AM
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check out the adapter plates at street-n-competion first. also a/f pegs will help. lp pegs are a good choice. in the meantime, did you remover the stock pegs feelers?


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2002, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, I have already removed the pegs feelers. I will look up those pegs! Thanks!
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2002, 12:25 PM
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Some relocater plates acutally have multiple positions so you can figure out if you like 1" versus 2". Look for those, but if you are going to do lots of tracktime, more clearance is better.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2002, 04:16 PM
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You can also try rasing the rear ride height by shimming the rear shock (assuming it is the stock shock). Put a washer or two on top of the shock between the shock and the subframe. 4mm of washer will likely equal 10mm of ride height. I wouldn't recommend any more than that. The steering will be quite a bit quicker as you have now changed the geometry of the bike. Go too far (too much rear ride height) and the bike will turn super fast but will suffer from instability. I still ocasionally grind the pegs on my F4 and that has rearsets and a shock w/ ride height adjutment. From the sounds of your post you rear shock is probably shagged. It may be time to have it resprung for your weight. Also make your you have set your preload/sag properly. To much sag (not enogh preload) will also casue the problem you mention.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-08-2002, 02:49 PM
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Unless you're unusually short I'd opine there's something wrong with your suspension setup. I had an F3 last year (see my icon) and could drag my knees before the footpegs touched - and I only have a 29-inch inseam.

Getting your suspension set up properly will make your bike handle better too. You'll get more feedback through corners and the bike will be more planted. This will, in turn, allow you to go faster. Which, of course, means you'll need rearsets as your skills progress and your cornering speeds increase.

I talked with Nick Ienatsche about this last year because the magazine testers have long complained about the ground clearance on the F3s and F4s. I mentioned to him that after removing the feelers I could get my knees on the asphalt without touching hard parts, and wanted to know why he and other testers were complaining. He asked me what my lap times were at Laguna Seca. Turns out he's about 20 seconds per lap faster on those bikes than I am.

Then a few weeks later at the Streets of Willow Springs I managed to grind the muffler on the asphalt in Turn 2. Didn't put me down, but it did scare the piss out of me. An Erion canister would be a good investment along with the rearsets.

But first have someone help you with your suspension settings.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-11-2002, 01:19 PM
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I know plenty of racers who have access to hacksaws and drill presses and make their own multiple position relocator brackets. A friend of mine purchased a set (not of best quality) for $60.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2002, 03:30 PM
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You ever get the clearance issue resolved?
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