The other flaw in his theory is the concept that the faster the engine revs the higher the pressure in the cylinder is. Again bollocks.
The pics he shows seem to represent good evidence but merely show a good working piston and rings and one that is operating with a cylinder wall smeared with oil , that then combusts at iginition and leave the tell tale signs. No amount of behind ring/ oil scaping pressure would prevent this.
as for his oil changing recommendations he needs to study a few basic hydraulic priinciples first before coming out with his back garden shed maintenance recommendations.
The longer oil is in an engine the better it gets. It gets broken down and "polished" as we call it. This allows a more consistent coating of moving parts.
The only time to change oil is if it gets burnt or diluted by a foreign liquid ( water, fuel etc)
I've used the ajax thing before ( when i'd ran out of grinding paste)
The finest grinding paste is tooth paste.
Used to use micrometer blue, which is a kind of blue smooth paste on cylinder walls. The when you put the piston in the cylinder and then remove it, it shows the "high"spots on the piston in blue. Would then polish these areas with ajax then tooth paste. Of course later we used solvosol compound ( autosol) aluminium polish. Sounds like a lot of work but when you're tired of fixing siezed two strokes anything that helps is good
On four strokes i've seen people use a combination of mineral oil and ATF fluid during the run in period. ATF fluid is basically oil with a very high dope content and that serves 2 purposes. 1. slighty reduced visocsity therefore allowing more abrasion of parts while they wear in 2. The added dope allows the cleaning process so debris ( including burntoil particles) get carried to the oil filter.
( in auto gearboxes it maintains clear oil ways as auto gearboxes rely heavily on hydraulic principles, ports, valves etc.
While i'm on the hydraulics rant! If you ever get stuck in the middle on nowhere an no brake or clutch fluid. Use engine oil as a get me home solution. Both your brake and clutch system ( non cable) are basic hydraulic systems. any non compressable liquid will do. I've even seen guys use engine oil thinned with petrol
Of course these are get me home measures and you may screw your brake seals or hoses ...but heh ...riding wih no brakes isn;t a lot of fun either