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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2007, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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decal dilema

i just removed a few decals off of my fender WITHOUT using a hair dryer like a lot of people on this forum have recomended. big mistake. now i have a thick coat of glue where the stickers used to be.
i bought Goo Gone which doesn't work as well as i thought it would. it makes it a lot easier to scrape of the glue, but it's taking way too long. after about half an hour with the edge of a key, i got 1/2 of one of the R6 decals.
it got dark outside, so i was thinking if waiting until miday tomorrow when it gets hot and that might make it easier. any other suggestions?
nobody in the barracks has hair long enough to need a hairdryer, so that's out of the question. the closest thing i can think of is MRE heaters to heat up the glue.
any further advice is greatly appreciated. thanks

P.S. i'm glad I didn't remove the massive stickers that take up most of my side plastics.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2007, 05:12 PM
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Perseverance. That's all I would recommend. Use your fingers to gently pull back the stickers and use the GooGone you have to clean the fairings of glue. GooGone does work best.
Good Luck!
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2007, 07:03 PM
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If you're limited to what you have on base: try rubbing alcohol, some terry washcloths or old socks, and some elbow grease. Soak the area and then get the adhesive to rub into little balls and pull them off a little at a time. If you still have plenty of goo-gone, keep your rag very wet and you should get good results. One last trick is to use the stickers to attract the remaining glue, just dab at the glue with the sticker repatedly and see if you can get it to grab and remove the little bastards.

The perseverance comment is probably the most valid. It will come off, it just takes a little time and patience.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2007, 04:19 AM
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Wouldn't rubbing alcohol starting tearing away at the clear coat?

I'd stick with the Goo-Gone and slowly working at it.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2007, 02:32 PM
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Paint thinner

I have used this to assist in the removal of ALL of my DOT crap that was on my bike when it was new. It works well, just rinse with water afterwards and apply wax in that area. I have also used this method to remove tar from my white truck. Bug & Tar remover will work as well but require more elbow grease.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2007, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by kanwisch
Wouldn't rubbing alcohol starting tearing away at the clear coat?

I'd stick with the Goo-Gone and slowly working at it.
Rubbing alcohol is safe with clearcoats, but it will thin out any waxes on there. I sometimes use different slow action thinners to get off overspray and other mishaps, but I never use it full wet. Factory paintjobs have a more plastic like clearcoat that is fairly durable and very well cured by the time the bike reaches the buyer.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-19-2007, 10:01 AM
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removing decals

I just recently did the same thing to my bike and goo gone didn't work. My local ACO had a product called Krud Kutter (sp?) that worked alot better. it did take several applications though. I used it pretty heavily on the first day and got frustrated with the fact it wasn't working and just kept going over it for a few applications per day. after about 4 days it was totally gone. I did have to do a little buffing over the area, but now it is completely invisible.

KR Tuned Exhaust/ BMC Race Filter/ PCIII/ DB Windscreen/ +2 Vortex rear/ Red EK Chain/
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-04-2007, 02:53 AM
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try using WD40, sounds crazy but it works . Spray a little on there and let it sit for a minute or two. I havent seen it harm paint yet. If that does not work, virgin lacquer thinner will. You have to be extremely careful with the lacquer thinner. It will cut through the adhesive almost immediately.

Using these methods, you need to be extremely gentile. Use only an very soft terrycloth. Do not push hard at all. When using lacquer, it will easily scratch the paint and leave a dull spot if that happens, compound by hand and wax.

I work in a detail shop and we have used these methods. If you choose to use them, Like I said, BE CAREFUL and GENTILE

Oh, I forgot, ammonia base window cleaner(windex) can work to cut adhesives too.

Good luck
Tom
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-12-2007, 09:32 PM
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GOO-GONE, Heat Gun and a beach towel... that's How I did it... what a pain in the a$$ though... Another crazy tip... Rain-X it's denatured alcohal and works for road tar and bugs real well... expencive though

Slappy...
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-13-2007, 12:43 PM
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Go buy a hairdryer already!
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