Good paint brands and where to get them - Sportbike Forum: Sportbike Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2006, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Good paint brands and where to get them

I want to repaint my bike because the guy I bought it off of repainted it before me and it looks like crap now. It's just flaking off in places.

So I want to repaint it myself and I was wondering if anyone could recommend some good paint brands, preferrably aerosol, so that I can prime, paint, and clear my plastics. I'd also like to know if you know where to get them at a reasonable price. TIA.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2006, 03:04 PM
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Lightbulb Aerosol hook up

Don't be afraid to visit your local PPG authorized Automotive paint dealer. Most of them can either supply you with off the shelf paints in the spray can or you can have your own color made up.
You will find everything you need starting with a good sealer that will stop any future peeling on your own paintwork(make sure you get all the old stuff off and do some good prepwork before you start spraying!). Even though you are using an aerosol spray can, you should approach your paintjob just like the pro's and use sealer, base, and clearcoat. They are all available and ready to use. Good luck.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-17-2006, 04:49 PM
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Damn your just spray painting the thing, grab a few cans of bed liner and get after it.



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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 10:47 AM
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Krylon is ok as well. You can get it anywhere... Wal-Mart, hardware stores, automotive stores, etc.

If you are new to painting, let me know if you need any info on the process. I'd be more than happy to help.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 10:53 AM
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Anyone know any good non-arisole paints? Most of you know I'm about to repaint my bike, as soon as I get the gun in, so I still need a decent brand of paint. Any tips? Sorry for the hijack.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 10:58 AM
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I use House of Kolor for all my work. Check your local phone book for automotive paint distributors and you should be able to find a hook-up. HOK runs about $30-50 per quart, and you'll need 310 reducer, (2:1 ratio mix) which is about $20 a quart, and then your clear. You can use any brand, but I'd recommend HOK clear, it's about $30 per quart, and $25 for the hardner. 2:1 mix.

PPG is also a good brand. I've only used it a few times, but it seems to be good. I've never tried Dupont paint, only their fast dry clear.

If you goto hokpaint.com they have an on-line tech manual with all the info you need about how to use their products. And like I said, if you have any questions, I'll do what I can.

Last edited by Iron Plated; 04-19-2006 at 11:04 AM.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 11:11 AM
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What do you suggest for a primer?

Sepias

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 11:19 AM
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I use HOK for my major projects, but it's pricy and touchy. I also use 5 Star Brand EXTREME 2k primer. It's good and the mix ratio is 4:1, so you get more for your buck.
It's high build and sands smooth. You can dry block it or wet sand it, which is what I do. They should carry it at the auto paint suppliers.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 11:21 AM
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How thick can I lay it on? Hopefully several layers, I gotta lot that I need to smooth out. Friggin deep gouges and a few spots that will be plastic welded.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 11:32 AM
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Usually two to three good wet coats is all you need. If you have really deep gouges, you should get some filler putty. Rough up your deep gouges with some 150 grit and then apply your putty. Once it dries you can sand excess off with 320, then feather it out with 600. The primer should take care of any light/medium sanding scratches.

If you aren't concerned with perfection, then go ahead and lay on the primer to fill the gouges, just add a little extra hardner to it, and wait a little longer during your drying times.

After your primer dries, hit the pieces with some black spray paint; just a dust coat. That way when you sand, you can see where all your low spots are.

If you are going for a pro look, I'd suggest getting a sealer too. This prevents the base coats of paint from 'absorbing' into the primer. Your paint will look like shit if you have 'splotchy' areas where the paint has sunk into the primer/putty, and all your work and $$ will be wasted. You can get sealer in multiple colors or it can be tinted to a close match of the color you are painting the bike. This also helps even out your base coats since the under color will be so close in shade.
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