748- Chopped Rear Fender and relocated turn signals - Sportbike Forum: Sportbike Motorcycle Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-30-2002, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up 748- Chopped Rear Fender and relocated turn signals

Hey y'all,

Just thought you might appreciate these pics as an idea of how to clean up your tail I basically just unscrewed the black plastic tag assembly, cut off all the excess black plastic. Drilled holes through the plate to mount it behind the tag light which holds it in place. I used a 7/8" piece from a fat ball point pen to space and bolt the two turn signals together. Initially I had the turn signals velcroed down on top of the tool box so they could shine through the top rear vents... problem was that you couldnt see them from behind cuz the tail swoops up. So I simply just rested the turnsignal assembly on top of the CF pipes and closed the tail!

Guess what? The CF pipes dont get hot enough to melt the plastic turn signals.



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Last edited by kramrd; 04-30-2002 at 08:00 AM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-01-2002, 04:43 AM
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That's an ingenious set-up. But for a little tips, here goes... watch out for the turn signals vibrating. They will wear a hole in your CF can quickly. My stock Suzuki signals on my SV wore a spot on the rear CF can in about 100 miles. It's not through the CF but it's noticable.

I would recommens getting a set of Buell X1 turn signals. They are $6 and change at your local dealer a piece. Get the rears, they have a shorter stalk. Then disassemble them, by removign the screw holding the lens on, remove the outer CLEAR lens, then the inner amber lens, remove stock 12volt, 10 amp bulb, and replace with a standard 1156 bulb, with the amber glass, put back on the clear cover.... And viola... clear signals for cheap... It cost me $6 x 4 = $24 for signals, then $4 for 4 amber 1156 bulbs so for $28 they look awesome. I don't have any pics of the set-up now, but I will in a few days.

Mike

2000 Suzuki SV 650
1981 Yamaha XT 250
1978 Yamaha RD400E
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-01-2002, 04:54 AM
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Cool done right

very nice - ya done did good. But wait, even if you go through a truly ball-beating ride session, it still wont melt the plastic?

"We had two bags of grass, seventy-five pellets of mescaline, five sheets of high-powered blotter acid, a salt shaker half full of cocaine, and a whole galaxy of multi-colored uppers, downers, screamers, laughers, and also a quart of tequila, a quart of rum, a case of Budweiser, a pint of raw ether and two dozen amyls... Not that we needed all that for the trip, but once you get locked in a serious drug collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can." HST
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-01-2002, 05:09 AM
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That's correct.... Carbon fiber can's rarely get hot... Usually they get hot enough to warm your hands on them after a cool fall or spring ride...

After pounding my CF can during a spirited ride, very spirited ride, it was just warm to the touch. Meaning, you could grab hold of it with bare hands. Either by the exit or intake of the exhaust canister. Same goes with titanium cans. The Ti can on the FZ1 my dad has barely gets warm... It's teh restrictive stock exhaust internals which generates the heat.

Mike

2000 Suzuki SV 650
1981 Yamaha XT 250
1978 Yamaha RD400E
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-01-2002, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tip, I'll keep an eye on them to make sure they dont start wearing a hole in the CF.

M.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-01-2002, 09:29 AM
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great job doc. very well thought out. something a lot these conversions don't tend to be.

Tony

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A braveman stands in front of freedom and defends it for others.


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