Originally posted by bridomine99
jardine slip on, pcIII, stock gears
A slip-on and a *well set up* PCIII should get you 4~5% more power. But know that just because you slap a Power Commander on a bike doesn't get you anything in and of itself. You need a good map and/or a tech that knows what he's doing. And since you obviously haven't dyno'd the bike (you'd give us the power output, right?), understand that you are throwing a map at your ride and hoping it sticks... I have seen bikes done with the same approach make more power with the PC *removed* than they did with it installed.
Not to mention that the real benefit of a device like a PC is better tractability from the motor and not necessarily peak ponies... And just because someone claims a given map for a PC gets you 5 more HP A) doesn't mean it's true and, B) on *his* bike, not yours... What gets perceived on the Butt~Dyno as "Awesome Top End Rush" can often be a hole in the midrange followed by normal performance. So you added a PC, maybe it's better, maybe it's worse. Have a pro set it up for you and dyno it so you know for sure..
Anyways - enough of the rant on Power Commanders...
Your top speed will be essentially unchanged, because that is dictated more by wind resistance than power output, and also somewhat because you haven't changed your gearing. The issue here is that wind resistance rises at the SQUARE of speed. So if your bike goes 160MPH on 100HP, it takes TEN THOUSAND (100 x 100) to reach 320. 100 times the output for twice the speed.
What you will gain is more acceleration, so it should take you less time to reach whatever your top speed is. And hopefully the map on your PC is a good one, so off~on throttle transitions and overall drivability are better than stock as well. Maybe that doesn't mean much to you, but what "better drivability" gets you is the ability to roll the power on sooner and more precicely than a competitor. If you can crack the throttle 20 feet earlier in a corner than your rival, that's an advantage he has no choice but to take back on the brakes at the end of the ensuing straight. *IF* he can do that, (you should have more or less equal brakes, right?), he's loading the front a lot more than you, and therefore is more likely to wash out the front end on corner entry.
If it sounds like this is stuff you can only really use at the racetrack.... Well... Yeah, somewhat. But a smoother motor is always more of a pleasure to ride, and a little more power is always appreciated. If you look at it from a street rider's perspective, engineering it for the most low/midrange gains gets you improvements you can use every time you pick the bike up off it's kickstand. The dyno might still say 105/45, but if you have more of that available to you sooner, then it's a *real* advantage, irregardless of what some Spec-Sheet-Racer says. Besides, a little noise just sounds so cool...
Having said that, you might now know why I generally try to tell folks to spend the $800 on a suspension rebuild instead of pipes and PCIIIs. That's where manufacturer's skimp the most, so that's where the most performance gain is to be had for your hard~earned. You don't even need to do a whole lot - Matching springs to each other and to your weight is the bulk of the battle.
Anyways - In one sentence - Your bike is probably no faster, but possibly a little quicker.